Notre-Dame des Jacobins (Agen)

Notre-Dame des Jacobins, also known locally as église des Jacobins d'Agen, is a magnificent historical gem nestled in the heart of Agen, France. This former Dominican church, dating back to the 14th century, stands as a testament to the rich history and architectural prowess of the medieval period. Its storied past and stunning architecture make it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and casual tourists alike.

The Origins of Notre-Dame des Jacobins

The Dominican Order, also known as the Order of Preachers, was approved by Pope Innocent III in 1215. Saint Dominic founded the first convent in Toulouse in 1216, following a rule inspired by Saint Augustine. The convent in Agen was established in 1249, according to Bernard Gui's History of the Various Chapters and Convents of the Order. However, records indicate that the Inquisition tribunals were active in Agen even before the Dominicans' arrival. The convent in Agen was founded by the inquisitor Bernard de Caux, who passed away and was buried there in 1252.

The provincial chapter of Montpellier approved the convent of the preaching friars in Agen in 1252, and by 1254, Alphonse de Poitiers had made a donation to the Dominicans for the construction of their church. The original church, likely smaller and simpler than the current structure, was built entirely of brick in accordance with the Order's prescriptions, which prohibited vaulting the building outside the choir until the late 13th century. As the Dominicans' preaching gained popularity, the church was expanded and elevated, incorporating stone for the window mullions, vault ribs, keystones, and central circular piers. The coat of arms of Alphonse de Poitiers, who died in 1271, can still be seen on a keystone.

A Witness to History

Notre-Dame des Jacobins has played a significant role in various historical events. After the Treaty of Amiens, the lords of Agenais swore allegiance to the King of England in the church on April 9, 1279. The founders of the convent, Bernard de Belcastel, Bernard de Caux, and Arnaud Bélanger, were buried in the church on April 26, 1281. In 1340, the future King John II of France received the homage of the barons of Agenais in the church.

The church also witnessed the tumultuous events of the French Wars of Religion. In December 1561, the convent was pillaged by Protestants. In 1585, Marguerite de Valois, Countess of Agenais, took refuge in the convent, transforming it into a citadel during her conflict with her brother, King Henry III, and her husband, Henry III of Navarre. The convent was severely damaged when Henry of Navarre set fire to the powder magazine in the novices' quarters, killing several novices and friars. The Protestants, who controlled the city, further destroyed the convent with mines, resulting in the loss of many documents and titles.

Transformation and Restoration

In 1789, the three estates of the seneschal of Agen met in the church to draft the cahiers de doléances. Following the French Revolution, the properties of religious orders were seized and sold as national assets, except for the church. The convent was destroyed, but the church was transformed into a parish church and reopened on March 23, 1807.

The architect Juste Lisch undertook the restoration of the church, including plans for painted decorations. Fortunately, due to a lack of funds, the medieval paintings were preserved. Another restoration was carried out in 1979 by François Corouge, and the church was converted into an exhibition center for the Museum of Fine Arts.

An Architectural Marvel

Notre-Dame des Jacobins is a prime example of a hall church, featuring a rectangular plan with two equal naves, each with four bays. The vaults are supported by cylindrical columns along the central axis, and the external thrust of the vaults on the walls is countered by brick buttresses. This design is shared by three Dominican churches: the Jacobins of Toulouse, the Jacobins of Paris (no longer in existence), and the Jacobins of Agen, which is a smaller version of the first two.

A National Monument

In recognition of its historical and architectural significance, Notre-Dame des Jacobins was classified as a historical monument on March 5, 1904. Today, the church stands as a testament to Agen's rich history and the enduring legacy of the Dominican Order. Visitors can explore its stunning architecture, marvel at its medieval paintings, and immerse themselves in the stories of the past that echo within its walls.

Whether you're a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to Notre-Dame des Jacobins offers a fascinating glimpse into the medieval history of Agen and the enduring legacy of the Dominican Order. Don't miss the chance to explore this remarkable historical gem and discover the stories that have shaped it over the centuries.