San Michele

San Michele, also known in its local language as Chiesa di San Michele, stands as a beacon of Baroque splendor in the heart of Alghero, Italy. This remarkable church, dedicated to the city's patron saint, is a must-visit for anyone exploring the historic center of Alghero. Located on Via Carlo Alberto, directly across from Piazza Ginnasio, San Michele captivates visitors with its rich history, architectural beauty, and profound spiritual significance.

The History of San Michele

The origins of San Michele date back to the 14th century. The earliest indirect reference to a place of worship dedicated to St. Michael appears in a document from February 19, 1364, penned by the notary Pere Fuyà. This document mentions a tower of St. Michael during a survey of the city's fortifications. However, the first definitive record of the church itself dates to 1585. The current structure, as it stands today, was reconstructed between 1661 and 1675 under the guidance of architect Domenico Spotorno from Savona, who also designed the cathedrals of Ales and Cagliari.

The Facade

The facade of San Michele is a testament to simplicity and elegance. It features a base of squared trachyte blocks, lending it a solid and enduring appearance. Above the wooden portal, two marble simulacra depicting the Annunciation are framed in trachyte, with a high-relief symbolizing the Holy Spirit positioned just above them. This understated yet profound design invites visitors to step inside and discover the treasures within.

The Interior

Upon entering San Michele, one is greeted by a single nave covered with a barrel vault, divided by transverse arches resting on Corinthian columns. Six deep chapels, three on each side, line the nave, each adorned with intricate artwork and religious iconography. The high altar is dominated by a grand altarpiece depicting the Archangel Michael, the church's titular saint, triumphing over Satan, who is bound beneath his feet. A majestic wooden statue of St. Michael further accentuates this theme of victory and divine protection.

One of the notable chapels is dedicated to the Madonna of Valverde. It houses a significant painting from 1652 and a niche containing a statue of the Virgin of Valverde, whose sanctuary is located a few kilometers outside the city. In the left arm of the transept, the chapel of St. Ignatius of Loyola features a painting of the saint in a state of ecstatic rapture, rendered with meticulous detail and dramatic lighting. The monumental altar in this chapel was completed in 1678.

On the right side of the transept, the chapel of St. Francis Xavier showcases a painting of the saint in motion, opening his robe to reveal his heart, with the inscription Satis, Domine, Satis (Enough, Lord, Enough) above. This chapel also contains a canvas depicting the Vision of St. Teresa of Avila, surrounded by Jesuit saints, with an inscription encircling her head like a halo. A polychrome marble plaque on the left wall commemorates Girolamo Ferret, a benefactor of the church and college, with a poignant inscription reminding visitors of life's fleeting nature.

One of the chapels on the left is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception. Its barrel-vaulted ceiling is adorned with panels depicting scenes from the life of the Madonna, complemented by stucco decorations. The high altar features an 18th-century Spanish crucifix, and above the entrance, a polychrome wooden choir loft bears the monogram IHS.

The Iconic Dome

San Michele's dome has become an iconic symbol of Alghero. This octagonal structure, supported by a tall drum and pendentives, is topped with a lantern. In the 1950s, the dome was clad in polychrome tiles designed by Antonio Simon Mossa and Filippo Figari, adding a vibrant and distinctive touch to the Alghero skyline. The church and its dome underwent restoration in 2007, ensuring their preservation for future generations.

Conclusion

San Michele is more than just a church; it is a testament to the enduring faith and artistic heritage of Alghero. Its Baroque architecture, rich historical tapestry, and profound spiritual significance make it an essential stop for anyone visiting this charming Sardinian city. Whether you are an art enthusiast, a history buff, or a spiritual seeker, San Michele offers a captivating glimpse into the soul of Alghero. So, take a moment to step inside, admire the intricate details, and let the serene ambiance of this remarkable church envelop you.