San Domenico

San Domenico, known locally as Chiesa di San Domenico, is one of the most significant and captivating religious edifices in Arezzo, Italy. This Gothic-style church, nestled in the charming Piazza San Domenico, has been a beacon of spirituality and historical intrigue since its construction began in 1275. Visitors to Arezzo are often drawn to this remarkable structure, not only for its religious significance but also for its rich history and stunning artistic treasures.

The Historical Journey of San Domenico

The history of San Domenico is as rich and textured as the stones that make up its ancient walls. The church's construction was initiated in the late 13th century, with significant financial contributions from the prominent Ubertini and Tarlati families. Despite being only partially completed, San Domenico hosted the first conclave in the history of the Roman Catholic Church in January 1276. This event marked the church as a pivotal site in ecclesiastical history.

The interior of San Domenico underwent significant modifications in the latter half of the 16th century, including the addition of new altars and the whitewashing of its frescoed walls. However, the church fell into disuse following the Grand Duchy of Tuscany's attempt to reform religious orders in 1782. It wasn't until the early 20th century that restoration efforts began, aiming to return the church to its former glory. These efforts included the removal of the 16th and 17th-century altars and the recovery of the original frescoes from the 13th and 14th centuries, culminating in 1924. The modern portico at the entrance, designed by Giuseppe Castellucci and completed in 1936, serves to protect the frescoes in the lunette above the main door.

Architectural Marvels and Artistic Treasures

San Domenico's asymmetrical Gothic façade, constructed from pietra forte stone, features a distinctive bell gable with two bells on its right side. The modern portico shelters a lunette fresco by Angelo di Lorentino, dating back to around 1480, depicting the Madonna and Child flanked by Saint Dominic and Saint Donatus.

Stepping inside, visitors are greeted by a single nave illuminated by six single-lancet windows on each side, with the spacing between them decreasing as they approach the apse, creating a striking sense of depth. The nave's walls are adorned with predominantly 14th-century frescoes, offering a vivid glimpse into the church's storied past.

Frescoes and Chapels

Among the frescoes, notable works by Spinello Aretino and his son Parri di Spinello can be found on the counter-façade. Spinello Aretino's mature works, including frescoes of Saints Philip and James the Lesser and scenes from their lives, as well as Saint Catherine, date from around 1395 to 1400. Parri di Spinello's fresco, depicting the Crucifixion with the Virgin, Saint Nicholas, Saint John, and Saint Dominic, was created shortly after, around 1400-1405.

The right wall of the nave features a series of frescoes, starting with Parri's depiction of Saint Catherine of Alexandria. This is followed by a 14th-century Adoration of the Magi and a 15th-century fresco of Saint Francis and Saint Anthony, though these latter works are in a state of disrepair.

The Dragondelli Chapel, a Gothic edicule with a double pointed arch and a black stone altar sculpted by Giovanni di Francesco da Firenze in 1368, is the only remaining example of this type of altar-chapel typical of Arezzo. Inside, an 18th-century fresco by Luca di Tommè depicts Jesus as a youth conversing with the doctors of the Temple. The chapel also houses a glazed terracotta of Saint Peter of Verona by Giovanni and Girolamo della Robbia, created between 1515 and 1520, and a 1409 fresco by Spinello Aretino, featuring a faux triptych with Saint Catherine flanked by Saint Lawrence and an unidentified saint, with the Redeemer, Saint Dominic, and another saint in three roundels above.

The Cimabue Crucifix and Other Highlights

One of the most significant treasures of San Domenico is the painted Crucifix by Cimabue, dating to the late 1260s. This masterpiece, considered one of the greatest works of 13th-century painting, hangs in front of the main altar, which is supported by marble columns. The left wall of the presbytery now houses the restored Funerary Monument of Ranieri degli Ubertini, Bishop of Volterra, attributed to Gano di Fazio. This monument, dating from around 1300-1310, is the earliest example of a hanging tomb in Arezzo.

The left apse chapel features a triptych by Giovanni d'Agnolo, depicting the Archangel Michael between Saint Dominic and Saint Paul. The left wall also contains several fragmentary frescoes, primarily from the 14th and 15th centuries, including works attributed to Giovanni d'Agnolo Balduccio and an anonymous 14th-century artist.

San Domenico is not just a church; it is a repository of history, art, and spirituality. Its walls echo the tales of centuries past, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the rich cultural tapestry of Arezzo. Whether you are an art enthusiast, a history buff, or a spiritual seeker, San Domenico promises an unforgettable experience that will leave you in awe of its timeless beauty and historical significance.