San Vicente, Ávila

San Vicente, known locally as Basílica de San Vicente, is an architectural gem nestled in the historic city of Ávila, Spain. This Romanesque basilica stands as the second largest and most significant church in the city after the Cathedral of Salvador, and it is one of the most outstanding examples of Romanesque architecture in the country. Declared a National Monument in 1882 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, San Vicente is a must-visit for anyone exploring the rich cultural heritage of Ávila.

The History of San Vicente

The origins of San Vicente date back to the early 4th century during the persecution of Christians under the Roman Emperor Diocletian. According to tradition, three siblings, Vicente, Sabina, and Cristeta, were martyred for their faith and buried in a rock hollow where the basilica now stands. Legend has it that the very person responsible for their deaths, a repentant Jew, later constructed a temple over their burial site, a story vividly depicted in the cenotaph within the basilica.

Due to the threat of Muslim incursions, in 1062, King Ferdinand I of León and Castile ordered the remains of the martyrs to be moved to the Monastery of San Pedro de Arlanza in Burgos. It wasn't until 1175, after the Reconquista had advanced and the frontier had moved south, that their remains were returned to their original resting place. The construction of the current basilica began around 1130 and continued with significant contributions from Kings Alfonso X the Wise and Sancho IV, finally reaching completion in the early 14th century.

Despite undergoing several renovations from the 14th to the 19th centuries, the basilica has retained its Romanesque style. Notably, it was restored between the mid-19th and early 20th centuries by the architect Enrique María Repullés y Vargas, who adhered to respectful restoration practices, a rarity at the time.

Exploring San Vicente

San Vicente is constructed from caleña stone, a type of sandstone with yellow, orange, and reddish hues due to its iron oxide content, sourced from the nearby village of La Colilla. The basilica features a Latin cross plan with three naves ending in semicircular apses, a long transept, a cimborio, an atrium, two unfinished towers, and a crypt. The pillars are of Greek cross design on cylindrical plinths with embedded semi-columns, and the naves are covered with ribbed vaults. The oldest parts of the basilica are the triapsidal chancel and the transept.

The western facade, completed in the mid-12th century, is adorned with grand archivolts decorated with figures of Christ and the Apostles. The crypt, divided into three chapels beneath each apse, houses the Romanesque image of the Virgin of Soterraña, the patroness of the city along with Saint Teresa. The image was restored in the 1980s, revealing its original splendor after centuries of being hidden by clothing.

The most striking feature of the basilica is its western portal, renowned for its intricate decoration. It boasts five archivolts with an eave adorned with figures of men and women in unusual postures. The tympanum is divided into two sections depicting scenes from the life of Lazarus, with the central mullion featuring a statue of Christ flanked by ten apostles. This portal is often compared to the Pórtico de la Gloria for its similarities. The southern portal is also noteworthy, with a scene of the Annunciation on the left and seven archivolts with alternating floral decorations, creating an elegant effect. The northern portal is simpler, serving as an auxiliary entrance with four archivolts, only the innermost of which is decorated with floral motifs.

The Interior of San Vicente

Inside the basilica, the main altar is a Baroque masterpiece of gilded wood with Solomonic columns, featuring a central figure of San Vicente flanked by his sisters. The ironwork is considered the finest in Ávila, currently located near the descent to the crypt. The southern transept houses the Renaissance tomb of San Pedro del Barco, and the basilica also boasts a Baroque organ.

The Cenotaph of the Martyr Saints

The most remarkable element inside San Vicente is the cenotaph of the martyr saints Vicente, Sabina, and Cristeta. This polychrome stone monument is one of the finest examples of Romanesque sculpture in Spain, preserved in excellent condition. The cenotaph, shaped like a three-part gabled roof with scale decorations, features reliefs depicting scenes from the story of the Magi and the martyrdom of the saints. The front of the cenotaph displays a Pantocrator in a mandorla, with a bull and a lion at his feet, symbols of the evangelists Luke and Mark. Below the Pantocrator is the Rosa Juradera, a symbol used in medieval trials where the accused would place their hand. San Vicente was one of the three juradera churches in the Kingdom of Castile, along with San Isidoro in León and Santa Gadea in Burgos, although this practice was abolished in 1505.

San Vicente is not just a basilica; it is a testament to the enduring faith and artistic heritage of Ávila. Its walls and sculptures tell stories of devotion, repentance, and artistic excellence, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking to delve into Spain's rich historical and cultural tapestry.