Nestled in the heart of Bastia, a charming coastal town on the island of Corsica, the Saint-Jean-Baptiste church in Bastia (known locally as église Saint-Jean-Baptiste à Bastia) stands as a testament to the town's rich history and architectural splendor. This magnificent structure, which is the largest church in Corsica, beckons visitors with its striking baroque façade and twin bell towers, offering an enriching glimpse into the past.
The origins of the Saint-Jean-Baptiste church date back to the 17th century, with its construction spanning three decades from 1636 to 1666. It was built on the site of a previous church, serving as a spiritual and communal focal point for the residents of the Terra Vechja quarter, the lower town of Bastia. During the Genoese period, Bastia was divided into two parishes: the upper town, Terra Nova, which depended on the church of Sainte-Marie-de-l'Assomption, and the lower town, Terra Vechja, which relied on Saint-Jean-Baptiste church.
The twin bell towers that grace the church's façade were added much later, in the 19th century. The left tower, constructed in 1810 by Swiss master mason Tomaso Quadri, and the right tower, designed by architect Paul-Augustin Viale in 1864, add to the church's grandeur and historical depth.
Stepping inside the Saint-Jean-Baptiste church, visitors are greeted by an interior that has undergone significant restoration and enhancement over the centuries. The décor, largely revamped in the 19th century, maintains a sense of opulent baroque style, though much of the original ornamentation has been replaced or restored.
The choir's decoration, initially restored in 1806 and 1807 by Tuscan painter Fausto Rossi and Genoese painter Giovan Battista Vicini, showcases intricate gilding and painting. Although Rossi passed away during the project, Roman painter Luigi Giordani completed the work in 1809. However, much of this original décor was later replaced. In 1867, the vault was entirely redecorated by Bastia entrepreneur Raphaël Nardini and stucco artist Paganoni, whose work can still be admired today. The grand oval medallion above the high altar, depicting angelic figures in an oculus opening towards the heavens, is particularly striking.
Reflecting the church's historical significance to the local community, the chapels dedicated to the mariners and fishermen stand out. Located opposite each other, these chapels honor the vital maritime heritage of Bastia. The Chapel of the Fishermen, dedicated to Saints Peter and Andrew, houses a painting by Genoese artist Giovanni Badaracco. The Chapel of the Mariners, dedicated to Saint Erasmus, features a grand painting by Lorenzo De Ferrari, another notable Genoese artist.
In the choir, the master altar, inlaid with polychrome marbles, was crafted in 1694 by French artisan Honoré Pellé, who worked in Genoa. This stunning piece is a highlight of the church's interior. Additionally, the chapel of the baptismal fonts, located to the left of the main entrance on Saint-Jean Street, features a white marble group depicting the baptism of Christ. Created by Ferdinando Pelliccia in 1857, the piece is flanked by rare Corsican marble columns (brèche panachée de Caccia), adding to its unique beauty.
The church is home to several remarkable paintings that add to its historical and artistic value. The Chapel of the Rosary (third on the left) boasts a painting by the renowned Genoese artist Domenico Piola, dating back to 1679. This work depicts the donation of the rosary to Saint Dominic and the donation of the cord to Saint Francis. The Chapel of the Souls in Purgatory (third on the right) also features a Piola painting, illustrating the intercession of the Virgin, Saint Joseph, and Saint Francis for the souls in purgatory.
Other notable artworks include a painting by Corsican artist Jules Pasqualini in the Chapel of Saint Anthony of Padua (fourth on the right), and a significant piece in the Chapel of the Decollation of Saint John the Baptist (first on the right), believed to be a copy of a grand painting by Gerrit van Honthorst, also known as Gherardo delle Notti, from 1618.
The church's pulpit, made of polychrome marbles, dates back to 1781 and is the work of Genoese artists Gaetano Torre, Gianandrea Torre, and Domenico Orsolino. The exceptional organ gallery, crafted in 1742 by Bastia carpenter Giovanbattista Terrigo, is another masterpiece within the church.
In conclusion, the Saint-Jean-Baptiste church in Bastia is not just a place of worship but a treasure trove of history, art, and culture. Its walls are adorned with centuries of stories, and its architecture reflects the rich heritage of Bastia. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or a curious traveler, a visit to this magnificent church promises to be an unforgettable experience.
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