Hospices de Beaune

Stepping into the Hospices de Beaune is like stepping back in time into the heart of Burgundy's rich history and architectural splendor. This former hospital, founded in the 15th century by Nicolas Rolin, Chancellor of the Duke of Burgundy, and his wife Guigone de Salins, is a masterpiece of flamboyant Gothic architecture and a symbol of medieval charity and care. Located in Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, the Hospices de Beaune is now a museum and one of the most visited tourist attractions in the region.

The Historical Significance

The Hospices de Beaune was established in 1443 during a time of great turmoil and suffering following the Hundred Years' War. Nicolas Rolin and Guigone de Salins envisioned a place where the poor and sick could receive care and solace. The foundation charter, signed on August 4, 1443, reflects their deep commitment to providing for the needy, and the institution admitted its first patients on January 1, 1452.

Throughout the centuries, the Hospices de Beaune has remained a symbol of compassion and medical care. It was run by the Sisters of Beaune, an order created in 1459, who combined monastic life with the care of the sick and poor. The hospital continued to function as a medical facility until the 1960s, and its historical significance was recognized when it was classified as a historic monument in 1862.

Architectural Marvels

The exterior of the Hospices de Beaune may appear relatively austere, but once inside the courtyard, visitors are greeted by the stunning sight of the famous polychrome roofs. These colorful glazed tiles, arranged in intricate geometric patterns, are a hallmark of Burgundian architecture and a feast for the eyes. The roofs were reconstructed between 1902 and 1907, faithfully recreating the original designs that had been lost over time.

The central courtyard, with its rectangular shape and Gothic iron well, provides a picturesque setting that transports visitors back to the medieval era. The buildings surrounding the courtyard feature two-story galleries with stone columns on the ground floor and wooden columns on the upper floor, offering shelter for the nursing sisters as they moved between rooms. The numerous dormer windows are adorned with finely crafted wood and iron decorations, adding to the overall charm of the courtyard.

The Grande Salle des Pôvres

The Grande Salle des Pôvres, or Great Hall of the Poor, is the heart of the Hospices de Beaune. This impressive room, measuring nearly 50 meters in length, 14 meters in width, and 16 meters in height, was designed to accommodate the hospital's patients. The hall is covered by a monumental wooden roof, shaped like the inverted hull of a ship, and supported by intricately carved beams. The beams end in colorful dragon heads, evoking the mythical creatures of medieval lore.

The hall is lined with two rows of curtained beds, each designed to hold two patients. Behind each bed, a small chest provided storage for the patients' belongings. The central area of the hall was used for communal meals, with tables and benches arranged for the patients' comfort. The floor is decorated with tiles bearing the monogram of Nicolas Rolin and his motto, Seulle, a tribute to his wife, Guigone de Salins, who was the sole lady of his thoughts.

The Chapel and the Polyptych of the Last Judgment

The chapel, an integral part of the Grande Salle des Pôvres, was originally adorned with the Polyptych of the Last Judgment, a masterpiece by the Flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden. This stunning altarpiece, created between 1446 and 1452, depicts the Last Judgment in vivid detail and was designed to offer spiritual solace to the patients. The polyptych was displayed closed during the week and opened on Sundays and feast days, revealing its magnificent scenes to the faithful.

Today, the polyptych is housed in a specially designed climate-controlled room within the Hospices de Beaune, allowing visitors to appreciate its artistic and spiritual significance. The chapel itself remains a place of quiet reflection, with the tomb of Guigone de Salins as a reminder of the founders' enduring legacy.

Other Notable Rooms

In addition to the Grande Salle des Pôvres and the chapel, the Hospices de Beaune features several other notable rooms, each with its own unique character and history. The Salle Sainte-Anne, located to the west of the Great Hall, was dedicated to Saint Anne and could accommodate four patients. The Salle Saint-Hugues, created in 1645, was reserved for wealthier patients and is adorned with beautiful murals by Isaac Moillon depicting the miracles of Christ and scenes from the life of Saint Hugh.

The Salle Saint-Louis, constructed in 1661, contains exquisite Gothic chests, a fountain, and two series of 16th-century tapestries. The Salle Saint-Nicolas, once used for the most seriously ill patients, now serves as an exhibition space showcasing the history of the Hospices de Beaune and its renowned vineyard.

The Apothicairerie and the Kitchen

The Hospices de Beaune also boasts a well-preserved apothecary, or apothicairerie, which consists of two small rooms filled with shelves of flasks and jars. The first room features a bronze mortar with an ingenious arc design to lighten its weight, making it easier for the apothecaries to prepare remedies. The second room houses a collection of 130 faience pots, dating back to 1782, used to store medicinal plants, ointments, oils, pills, and syrups.

The kitchen, with its large double fireplace, is another highlight of the Hospices de Beaune. It contains various cooking implements and a vast hearth where meals were prepared for the patients. The kitchen provides a glimpse into the daily life and culinary practices of the hospital's staff and patients.

The Legacy of the Hospices de Beaune

The Hospices de Beaune is not only a historical and architectural gem but also a symbol of charity and care that has endured for centuries. Its legacy continues through the annual wine auction, known as the Vente des Hospices de Beaune, which has been held since 1859. The proceeds from the auction support the maintenance of the historic buildings and the charitable activities of the Hospices de Beaune.

Today, visitors from around the world come to admire the beauty and history of the Hospices de Beaune, exploring its magnificent halls, serene chapel, and fascinating apothecary. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply a curious traveler, the Hospices de Beaune offers a captivating journey through time and a deeper understanding of Burgundy's rich cultural heritage.