Abbey of St Maria del Monte

Nestled atop the picturesque Colle Spaziano in Cesena, Italy, the Abbey of St Maria del Monte (known locally as Abbazia di Santa Maria del Monte) stands as a testament to centuries of history, art, and spirituality. This Benedictine abbey, with its roots tracing back to the 9th century, offers visitors a serene escape and a profound connection to the past.

The Historical Tapestry of the Abbey of St Maria del Monte

The story of the Abbey of St Maria del Monte begins on the remnants of an earlier church constructed in the 9th century. Between 1001 and 1026, the site saw significant expansion and beautification, culminating in the establishment of the Benedictine monastery. Over the centuries, the abbey evolved through various restorations, particularly during the 15th and 16th centuries, which gave it its present form.

One of the most intriguing aspects of the abbey's history is its collection of ex-voto, which comprises 690 pieces dating back to the 1400s. These painted tablets depict the miracles attributed to the Virgin of the Mount, showcasing the deep-rooted faith and devotion of the people of Cesena. The abbey also holds the distinction of having hosted Pope John Paul II during his visit to Romagna in 1986, an event commemorated by a specially painted ex-voto.

Architectural Marvels and Artistic Treasures

As you approach the Abbey of St Maria del Monte, the panoramic views from the piazzale are nothing short of breathtaking. From Monte Titano to the rolling hills of the Apennines and the vast expanse of the Romagna plain leading to the Adriatic Sea, the scenery is a feast for the eyes.

The abbey's church, with its single nave and four chapels on each side, is a treasure trove of art and history. The frieze by Girolamo Longhi, depicting fourteen scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary, runs along three sides of the church. This masterpiece, created in 1559, was rediscovered in 1914 and miraculously survived the bombings of World War II.

The Presbytery and Monastic Choir

Walking down the nave towards the presbytery, you will notice the symbol of the Benedictines of the Cassinese Congregation embedded in the floor. The right side of the presbytery houses the Deposition of Christ by Mastelletta, while the left side features Jesus with the Samaritan Woman by Marcantonio Franceschini, dating to the late 17th century. The monastic choir, crafted from walnut by Giuseppe della Val di Scalve between 1560 and 1562, is a true marvel, and behind the altar stands the statue of the Assumption of the Virgin, a 13th-century creation adorned with crowns by Pope Pius VII in 1814.

The Dome and Its Splendor

The dome of the abbey is adorned with frescoes by Giuseppe Milani, painted between 1773 and 1774. The artwork features a stunning Assumption of the Virgin in the dome, surrounded by scenes from the Old Testament, the Four Evangelists on the pendentives, and the Principal Christian Virtues at the base of the arches. The influence of Melozzo da Forlì's perspective techniques is evident in these magnificent frescoes.

Exploring the Side Chapels

The side chapels of the abbey are home to an array of artistic gems. The first chapel on the right boasts an Annunciation by Bartolomeo Coda from 1543 and a tondo of St. John the Baptist. The second chapel features St. Maurus Healing the Sick by Francesco Mancini (1704) and a tondo of the Deposition by Girolamo Marchesi. However, the third chapel on the right contains the most prized painting in the basilica: The Presentation of Jesus in the Temple and the Purification of the Virgin by Francesco Raibolini, known as Francia, dated 1515.

The Ambulatory and the Ex-Voto Collection

The ambulatory of the abbey is adorned with paintings of ancient Cesena and houses part of the precious ex-voto collection. The collection is one of the richest and oldest in Europe, offering a fascinating glimpse into the devotional practices of the past. The ambulatory also features three chapels, each with its own unique treasures, including a 14th-century crucifix, a terracotta statue of St. Joseph from the early 20th century, and a statue of St. Benedict by Leonardo Lucchi from 1987.

The Crypt and Sacristy

The crypt, accessed through wrought iron gates crafted by Fra Pio Nobilione in the 20th century, contains a 9th-century stone cross and a Roman sarcophagus that once served as the burial place of St. Mauro. The sacristy, dating back to the 14th century, features 18th-century furniture and a cycle of frescoes by Giovanni Cappelli from 1946. Notable artworks in the sacristy include St. John the Evangelist by Lorenzo Veneziano (circa 1370), The Presentation in the Temple by Francesco Menzocchi (1534), and The Holy Family by Gaspare Sacchi (1536).

The Abbey of St Maria del Monte is not just a place of worship; it is a living museum that encapsulates the rich history and artistic heritage of Cesena. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or a spiritual seeker, a visit to this remarkable abbey promises to be an enriching and unforgettable experience.