Chester Roman Amphitheatre

In the heart of Chester, Cheshire, lies a fascinating relic of Roman Britain – the Chester Roman Amphitheatre. This ancient structure, managed by English Heritage, is a Grade I listed building and a scheduled monument, offering visitors a glimpse into the vibrant and tumultuous past of Roman Britain.

The History of Chester Roman Amphitheatre

The Chester Roman Amphitheatre dates back to the 1st century AD, coinciding with the founding of the Roman fort of Deva Victrix. Initially, it was believed that a smaller wooden amphitheatre preceded the current stone structure. However, excavations since 1999 have revealed that the wooden grillage served as the base for the seating rather than an earlier amphitheatre.

This amphitheatre is the largest uncovered in Britain, showcasing the grandeur and significance of Roman architecture and entertainment. Contrary to the English myth that the amphitheatre was primarily used for military training, evidence from excavations indicates that it hosted a variety of spectacles, including cockfighting, bull-baiting, classical boxing, wrestling, and the much-celebrated gladiatorial combats. The poet Oppian noted the Romans' passion for cockfighting, a tradition inherited from the Greeks, which was held as a solemn rite to remind men to emulate the cock's valor.

Throughout much of the Roman occupation of Britain, the amphitheatre remained in use until around the year 350 AD, when it fell into disuse. The site was rediscovered in 1929 during construction work, revealing a long-lost piece of history.

The Construction of the Amphitheatre

The first amphitheatre at Chester was a simple structure built by Legio II Adiutrix in the late 70s AD. However, it was soon rebuilt by Legio XX Valeria Victrix after Legio II Adiutrix was reposted to the Danube region in 86 AD. This amphitheatre fell into disuse again when Legio XX was assigned to construct Hadrian's Wall. Upon their return around 275 AD, the amphitheatre was once again rebuilt.

The newer structure was an impressive stone ellipse, 40 feet (12 meters) high, measuring 320 feet (98 meters) along the major axis and 286 feet (87 meters) along the minor. It could easily accommodate 8,000 spectators, with exits at all four compass points. The amphitheatre was strategically placed at the southeast corner of the fort, surrounded by a complex of dungeons, stables, and food stands to support the contests. A shrine to Nemesis, the goddess of retribution, was built at the north entrance to the arena.

The scale and sophistication of the amphitheatre complex have led historians to speculate that Chester might have become the capital of Roman Britain had the Romans successfully captured Ireland, though no such attempt was ever made.

Rediscovery and Excavation

Although the amphitheatre's existence was speculated for years, the first evidence was uncovered in 1929 when a curved wall was discovered during gardening work at Dee House. Subsequent excavations revealed that the structure was largely intact beneath the ground. However, the site was covered by buildings and lay in the path of a new planned road.

The Chester Archaeological Society raised funds to divert the new road and excavate the arena. Progress was slow, and it was not until 1933 that the road's route was changed. Excavations were initially scheduled for 1939 but were postponed due to World War II. Work resumed in 1957, revealing more of the amphitheatre's structure. Further excavations between 2000 and 2006 uncovered remains of earlier amphitheatres and an older Roman building on the site. Among the finds were cooked animal bones and Roman pots depicting gladiator combat, suggesting that the site was one of the first places to develop souvenirs for spectators.

The Chester Amphitheatre Project

In January 2004, a partnership between Chester City Council and English Heritage established the Chester Amphitheatre Project. The project's goals included conducting a new survey of the site, opening a research center, and hosting an international amphitheatre conference in 2007. The survey revealed that two separate stone amphitheatres had been built, with the second one doubling the seating capacity around 200 AD. Excavation finds included a coin from the time of Vespasian, a Gladius hilt, and Samian ware with hunting and battle scenes.

Some writers suggested that the amphitheatre was the prototype for King Arthur's Round Table, but English Heritage found no archaeological basis for this claim.

The Amphitheatre Mural

In August 2010, Chester Renaissance commissioned a trompe-l'œil mural to provide visitors with an illusion of a complete amphitheatre and a glimpse of how the original structure may have looked. The mural, designed by artist Gary Drostle, spans a 50-meter walkway wall, seamlessly merging the current amphitheatre edges into a recreation of the original walls and seating. The mural offers a full immersion experience, depicting details such as the red, marble-covered arena wall, doorways, vomitoriums, and outer walls based on archaeological evidence.

The mural took over six weeks to complete, with two six-meter scaffolding towers and five painters. Visitors and tourist groups could watch the mural's progression and interact with the artist and his assistants, weather permitting. The mural is a permanent feature of the amphitheatre, painted using Keim Mineral Paints, known for their durability and breathability.

Visiting the Chester Roman Amphitheatre is a journey through time, offering a unique perspective on Roman Britain's history and the enduring legacy of this ancient civilization. Whether you're a history enthusiast or a casual tourist, the amphitheatre provides a captivating experience that transports you back to the days of gladiators and grand spectacles.