Porta Serio, a majestic gateway to the historic heart of Crema, Italy, stands as a testament to the city's rich past and architectural allure. This grand structure not only marks the entrance to Crema's old town but also invites visitors to step back in time and explore the stories etched into its stones.
Porta Serio's origins are intertwined with the history of Crema itself. While the exact timeline before the construction of the Venetian walls remains shrouded in mystery, it is believed that an entrance existed at the current site of Via Giuseppe Mazzini, leading to the formation of the San Benedetto suburb outside the city walls. Historical records, such as those by Pietro Terni, mention the reconstruction of the walls in 1199, suggesting the presence of mills just beyond them.
Throughout the centuries, Porta Serio has witnessed significant transformations. In the 14th century, it was flanked by a castle, and during the Venetian era, a bastion was added to protect both the gate and the castle. This defensive structure, described as an opera a corna, was so narrow that it barely covered the main Serio gate or the inner square, visible from the countryside.
By the late 17th century, the gate was undergoing partial reconstruction, as evidenced by a map from 1681/1682. The transition to the Cisalpine Republic in 1803 marked a turning point, as Crema was declared an open city, leading to the dismantling of its defensive structures. Architect Faustino Rodi was commissioned to redesign Porta Serio and Porta Ombriano, transforming them into neoclassical masterpieces.
The architectural elegance of Porta Serio is a sight to behold. The gate's external facade is adorned with two towering Ionic columns supporting a grand central archway. The lateral sections feature rusticated stonework with two superimposed orders, while a triangular pediment crowns the structure, flanked by two statues.
The internal facade presents a contrasting design, characterized by the absence of the pediment and the negative effect of the columns emerging from shadowy recesses. This design choice is thought to have been inspired by Luigi Cagnola's work on Porta Ticinese in Milan. The archway here supports four statues, each telling its own story.
The statues adorning Porta Serio were specifically chosen by Faustino Rodi to emphasize Crema's commercial heritage. The two external statues, crafted from Botticino marble, represent Italy and France. These neoclassical figures, draped in long, high-waisted gowns and holding leaves and flowers, reflect the artistic influences of French examples and the school of Antonio Canova.
On the internal facade, four statues depict classical military figures. The first statue on the left, a parade-ready warrior, bears the initials H.M.B.O., attributed to Orazio Marinali of Bassano. The second, a theatrical warrior clad in a cloak and ornate armor, is signed HORAT MARENALIS BASSANI OPUS. The third figure, with a similar costume, once held a command staff and is signed HORATIJ ET FRAN FRATR V DE MARENALI BASSANENSI VOPUS. These three statues are made of Carrara marble, while the fourth, an unsigned and weathered warrior missing an arm, is crafted from sandstone. The Marinali family of Bassano del Grappa, renowned sculptors of the 17th century, created three of these remarkable figures.
Porta Serio is more than just an architectural wonder; it is a living monument that has witnessed the ebb and flow of history. In the early 20th century, the demolition of adjacent customs houses isolated the gate, further highlighting its grandeur. During World War II, the area near Porta Serio became the stage for a tragic event: the shooting of a 17-year-old student, Domenico Pizzochero, by German soldiers in 1943.
Today, Porta Serio stands proudly on the eastern side of Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, welcoming visitors to explore its rich history and the vibrant city beyond. As you pass through its arches, take a moment to appreciate the artistry and history that envelops this enduring symbol of Crema's past.
In conclusion, Porta Serio is not just a gateway; it is a bridge between eras, a silent witness to the evolution of Crema. Its architectural splendor and historical significance make it an essential stop for anyone eager to delve into the city's captivating story.
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