San Mercuriale abbey

San Mercuriale Abbey, or Abbazia di San Mercuriale as it is known in its native Italian, stands proudly in the heart of Forlì, a picturesque city in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. This architectural gem, with its towering bell tower and Romanesque design, is not only the most recognizable building in Forlì but also a symbol of the region’s rich history and cultural heritage.

The Origins and Early Development

The history of San Mercuriale Abbey is shrouded in mystery, particularly concerning its foundation and early medieval period. Originally, the church was situated outside the urban core, separated from the city by the River Rabbi or one of its tributaries. From the early centuries of Christianity, the local community gathered in this area, and it is believed that a cemetery and a place of worship existed here during the episcopate of Saint Mercuriale, who led the Christian community of Forlì around the 5th century.

According to tradition, Saint Mercuriale was buried in a sepulcher east of the city, and subsequent bishops likely followed his example, adhering to the prohibition of burying bodies within city walls until the 5th century. Some scholars suggest that the first cathedral of Forlì may have stood on the site of the current abbey before being relocated to the city center. However, considering the necessity of crossing the city walls and the River Rabbi to reach the abbey, many believe that the bishop’s seat was always in the current Santa Croce, while the abbey served as a pleban center outside the city.

Leone Cobelli, a 15th-century chronicler, claimed that a church dedicated to Saint Stephen, the first martyr of Christianity, once stood on the site of the current abbey. Following the turmoil of the 5th and 6th centuries, a community of believers likely began residing near the tomb of Saint Mercuriale, eventually transferring his relics and those of Saints Marcello and Grato to a new religious building. It was during this period that the church was rededicated to Saint Mercuriale, with his feast day on April 30 possibly marking the day of the relics' translation.

The earliest documented reference to the church and monastery of San Mercuriale dates back to an 894 AD document in the Vallombrosian archives, where Archbishop Domenico Ublatella of Ravenna donated lands to Abbot Leone of San Mercuriale. Archaeological excavations in 1951 uncovered the foundations of the original church, revealing an ancient crypt above which the current Romanesque crypt was rebuilt.

The Medieval Period

In 1173, conflicts between the Guelphs and Ghibellines resulted in a fire that destroyed many buildings, including the church. The reconstruction of a new, larger abbey in Romanesque style began on the site of the destroyed church. By 1181, the new abbey was sufficiently complete for Bishop Alessandro to preach within its walls.

The new abbey featured three naves and three apses, with a central altar above a voluminous crypt, a portico preceding the portal, and the imposing bell tower that still stands today. The abbey's wealth, reflected in its monumental construction and decorations by renowned craftsmen, stemmed from continuous donations and privileges received between the 10th and 12th centuries. These contributions made the abbey independent from episcopal authority and the powerful churches of Ravenna.

The abbey complex included not only the church but also a monastery with a cloister, a cemetery, and a hospital for pilgrims, highlighting its strategic location along the Via Emilia. The demographic and political growth of Forlì in the 12th century led to the expansion of the city walls, incorporating the abbey into the urban center by 1161. In 1212, the municipality requested land from the abbey for the establishment of the future Piazza Maggiore, further integrating the abbey into the city’s fabric.

During the 14th century, the abbey underwent further modifications, including the construction of two new lateral chapels connected by a Gothic portico, altering the original Romanesque architecture. The abbey remained outside the city walls until the 13th century, when it was finally incorporated into the urban landscape.

The Renaissance Period

In the 15th century, the Vallombrosian monks added a rectangular cloister with slender and elegant columns to the abbey. To provide greater stability to the nave roofs, a new ceiling with cross vaults replaced the medieval trusses. During this period, noble families and local confraternities enriched the church with numerous side chapels, including the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament and the Ferri Chapel.

Until the 16th century, the church had two main altars: an upper one on the presbytery for the monks and a lower one in the crypt for the regular clergy. In 1505, the presbytery vault collapsed, destroying the crypt and burying the saint's relics, which were rediscovered in 1575 and placed in the Mercuriali family chapel at the end of the right nave. The reconstruction of the entire apse area began in 1506, and the crypt was not rebuilt, reflecting the shift in the city's patronage to Saint Valerian, whose relics were housed in the cathedral.

San Mercuriale Abbey stands as a testament to Forlì’s historical and religious evolution. Its towering bell tower and Romanesque architecture continue to captivate visitors, offering a glimpse into the rich tapestry of the city’s past and its enduring cultural legacy.