St. Jacobi (Church : Greifswald, Germany)

St. Jacobi, known locally as St.-Jacobi-Kirche, is a gem of Gothic architecture nestled on the western edge of the old town of Greifswald, Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, Germany. This enchanting church, dedicated to St. James the Elder, stands proudly along the Via Baltica, a part of the famous Way of St. James pilgrimage route. Despite being the smallest of the three medieval churches in Greifswald, St. Jacobi holds a unique charm and historical significance that captivates all who visit.

The Origins and Early History of St. Jacobi

St. Jacobi's history is as rich as it is compelling. The church was constructed between 1250 and 1264, alongside the establishment of the St.-Spiritus-Hospital and the new town area of Greifswald. It was first mentioned by name in 1275 when Pomeranian Duke Barnim I transferred the church’s patronage to the nearby St.-Spiritus-Hospital. The first recorded pastor of the church was Hermann, marking the beginning of a vibrant ecclesiastical history.

During the late 13th century, a dispute arose between the Eldena Abbey and Duke Barnim I regarding the patronage of St. Jacobi. While a 1265 document confirmed the abbey's patronage over all Greifswald churches, it is believed that St. Jacobi was not included, as its construction was likely incomplete at the time. The conflict was eventually resolved in favor of the abbey, with papal confirmation in 1298.

Pilgrimages and Patronage

St. Jacobi has long been associated with the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Records from 1311 indicate that pilgrims departing from Greifswald considered St. Jacobi among the beneficiaries in the event of their death. The church also received numerous endowments, including the Letzenische and Hagemeisterschen Vicarages and the St. James Altar.

Four guilds utilized St. Jacobi in the Middle Ages: the Marian Guild, the Corpus Christi Guild, the Brotherhood of the Twelve Apostles, and the St. Erasmus Guild. The Marian Guild was particularly connected to the Letzenitz family, a prominent family in Greifswald’s new town. Many family members' gravestones are found within the church, though the Marian Chapel, once on the adjacent cemetery, was dismantled in 1798.

Architectural Marvels

St. Jacobi is a splendid example of early Gothic brick architecture. The church's layout consists of a three-aisled hall, a square west tower, and a polygonal chancel to the east. Initial plans for a two-aisled hall church are evident from the remnants of large, now bricked-up window niches in the east wall. Construction began around 1280, starting with the two easternmost bays of the nave and the western tower.

The current nave features a hall with a broad central aisle flanked by narrow side aisles. Eight round pillars on high bases define the five bays of the central aisle. The ceiling is a cross-ribbed vault supported by wooden corbels adorned with foliage. Inside, a striking contrast between glazed and unglazed bricks is visible, adding to the church's visual appeal.

The Tower and Portals

The west tower, an integral part of St. Jacobi, comprises lower and upper sections. The lower section, completed before 1300, features a grand, richly decorated west portal with twelve steps and intricate carvings, including vine leaf capitals and stylized figures of a lion and a griffin. The upper sections of the tower were added by 1410/20, culminating in a pointed pyramid roof.

St. Jacobi has five portals: a northwest portal, a southeast choir portal, two south portals along the nave, and the grand west portal. The triangular east gable, adorned with eight double niches, and the brick-tiled gable roof complete the church’s exterior.

Interior Treasures

Inside, St. Jacobi houses several notable features. The baptismal font, dating from the second half of the 13th century, is a simple yet elegant granite chalice. It belongs to the Loitz Group of fonts, inspired by Gotlandic models. The church also boasts a Majestas Domini fresco from around 1410/20, depicting Christ enthroned within a mandorla, surrounded by rainbow arches.

In the winter church, two wooden figures of the apostles Peter and Paul, dating from around 1500, are displayed. These figures, originally part of an altar in the Franciscan convent's church, were relocated to St. Jacobi in 1961.

Historical Challenges

Throughout its history, St. Jacobi has faced numerous challenges. A fire in 1461 caused significant damage. During the Thirty Years' War, the church was used as a granary, and in the Great Northern War, it served as a powder magazine. During the Napoleonic Wars, it was repurposed as a forage store and later as a field bakery. A mysterious fire in 1955 damaged the tower and organ, adding to the church's storied past.

Today, St. Jacobi stands as a testament to Greifswald's rich history and resilience. Its architectural beauty, historical significance, and spiritual legacy make it an essential visit for anyone exploring this charming German town. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or a pilgrim on the Way of St. James, St. Jacobi offers a captivating glimpse into the past and a serene space for reflection.