Pernerinsel, nestled in the heart of the picturesque town of Hallein in the Salzburg state of Austria, is a gem that seamlessly blends history, culture, and natural beauty. This captivating island, surrounded by the gentle embrace of the Salzach River, offers visitors a unique glimpse into the past while providing a vibrant cultural experience in the present.
Pernerinsel's history is deeply intertwined with the salt trade that once flourished in the region. The name Hallein itself is derived from the Old High German word hal, meaning salt source or salt works, underscoring the town's historical connection to salt production. The island was initially the site of the Lustgarten, the pleasure garden, and the so-called Pfleggarten of the Salzburg archbishops. From 1854 to 1862, a saltworks facility was constructed on the island, which remained operational until the 1980s.
In 1992, the historic saltworks building, now a protected monument, found new life as a cultural venue. Thanks to the efforts of cultural enthusiasts and the new artistic director Peter Stein, the Sudhalle (boiling hall) was transformed into a theater space for the Salzburg Festival. This transformation took a mere eighty days, and the first production staged was Andrei Serban's Antiken-Trilogie, based on works by Sophocles, Euripides, and Seneca.
Today, Pernerinsel is a vibrant cultural hub that attracts visitors from near and far. The island is approximately 500 meters long and up to 200 meters wide, making it a compact yet rich destination to explore. The southern end of the island is connected to the town of Hallein by the Stadtbrücke (City Bridge), which features a walkable artwork by Haubitz + Zoche. Several other bridges, including the Colloredobrücke, Heidebrücke, Pfannhausersteg, and Kühbrücke, connect the island to surrounding neighborhoods, ensuring easy access for visitors.
The centerpiece of Pernerinsel is undoubtedly the theater housed in the former saltworks building. This versatile space can accommodate up to 800 visitors and is renowned for its adaptability to various productions. The seating and stage areas can be reconfigured to suit the needs of each performance, creating an intimate and immersive experience for the audience. The theater's acoustics are carefully managed with adjustable wall coverings and ceiling reflectors, ensuring optimal sound quality for every show.
Pernerinsel has hosted a wide range of performances, from contemporary plays to operas, operettas, and concerts. Notable productions include the German-language premiere of Luk Perceval's Schlachten! in 1999, a twelve-hour adaptation of Shakespeare's Wars of the Roses, which was hailed as the best production of the year by critics from the theater magazine Theater heute. Other memorable performances include Peter Stein's production of Grillparzer's Libussa in 1997, Hans Neuenfels' provocative reinterpretation of Johann Strauss' Die Fledermaus in 2001, and Sophocles' Oedipus at Colonus with Klaus Maria Brandauer in 2010.
Adjacent to the theater is the Pflegekapelle zum Hl. Geist, also known as the Salinenkapelle. This charming chapel, likely dating back to the early 17th century, adds a touch of historical and architectural charm to the island. The chapel features a simple yet elegant design, with an altar from the mid-18th century that originally stood in the now-demolished St. Ursula Chapel. The highlight of the chapel is a statue of a seated Madonna with Child, created around 1450, which adds a sense of reverence and beauty to the space.
Pernerinsel is not just about history and culture; it also offers a serene natural environment for visitors to enjoy. The island's lush greenery and tranquil river views provide a perfect setting for leisurely walks and relaxation. The Salzach River, which splits into two arms at the southern end of the island and converges again at the northern end, adds a picturesque backdrop to this idyllic location.
For those arriving by car, the Salzachtal Straße (B159) provides convenient access to the island via the Stadtbrücke and Colloredobrücke. Additionally, a free shuttle bus service is available for Salzburg Festival guests, transporting them from Salzburg to Pernerinsel an hour before performances begin.
Pernerinsel in Hallein is a destination that offers something for everyone. Whether you're a history enthusiast, a culture aficionado, or simply seeking a peaceful retreat in nature, this island has it all. Its rich history, vibrant cultural scene, and stunning natural beauty make it a must-visit location for anyone exploring the Salzburg region. So, take a step back in time, immerse yourself in the arts, and enjoy the serene surroundings of Pernerinsel – a true hidden gem in the heart of Austria.
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