St Mary's Church in Hitchin, Hertfordshire, stands as a splendid testament to the town's rich historical and architectural heritage. As the largest parish church in Hertfordshire, St Mary's grandiose presence is a striking feature of Hitchin’s skyline, embodying centuries of history and the prosperity brought by the wool trade. This majestic church, dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries, offers a fascinating journey through time, inviting visitors to explore its storied past and architectural marvels.
St Mary's Church is steeped in history, with its roots tracing back to ancient times. The present church stands on the site of two previous churches, with remnants of a Saxon church discovered during floor renovations in 1911. These foundations, believed to be from a 7th-century basilican church, hint at the site’s long-standing religious significance, possibly linked to a Benedictine monastery founded by Offa, King of Mercia.
The church has witnessed numerous historical events and transformations. In 910, it was burnt down along with its adjoining palace, prompting the monks to relocate to St Albans Abbey. The local community, using stones from the ruins, built a new parish church. The Domesday Book of 1086 lists St Mary's as the most important church in the Deanery of St. Albans, underscoring its significance even in those early days.
Over the centuries, St Mary's endured several calamities, including the ‘Great Wind’ of 1115, which necessitated the complete rebuilding of the nave, a lightning strike in 1292, and an earthquake in 1298 that caused the center of the church to collapse. Despite these adversities, the church was resiliently rebuilt, with significant reconstruction occurring in 1305 using flint, rubble, and stone from Totternhoe.
The architectural beauty of St Mary's Church is a feast for the eyes, with features dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries. The church was originally dedicated to St Andrew but later became known as The Church of St Mary, thanks to the influential Guild of Our Lady founded in the 15th century. One of the church’s most celebrated features is the south porch, added around 1450, with its original door still intact.
Inside the church, visitors can admire the baptismal font, dating from around 1470. The figures of the Twelve Apostles around its base bear the marks of history, having been damaged by Puritan soldiers during the English Civil War when Oliver Cromwell’s troops were garrisoned in the church. The pulpit, dating from about 1500, though missing its canopy, ‘wine-glass’ base, and clerk’s desk, remains a significant historical artifact.
One of the most remarkable features is the Angel Screen, considered one of the finest in the country. On its eastern side, visitors can find the fraternity stalls used by the Guild of 'Our Blessed Lady St Mary the Virgin'. The sundial on the southeast corner of the ancient tower, erected in thanksgiving for the Restoration of Charles II in 1660, adds another layer of historical intrigue.
The church’s organ, a three-manual instrument built by J. W. Walker in 1871, is another highlight. Inaugurated by John Stainer, the organ has been rebuilt three times, most recently in 1958. Its carved oak case, created by Laurence Arthur Turner and installed in 1913, is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship. Modern additions include the altar rail, featuring the trademark mouse carved by Robert 'Mouseman' Thompson.
St Mary's Church has been the site of several notable events. It hosted the funeral services for Sir Henry Wood, a renowned conductor who died at the nearby Hitchin Hospital, and Reginald Hine, a solicitor and Hitchin historian. In August 2015, the church’s windows were unfortunately damaged in a religiously motivated attack, resulting in a repair cost of £10,000.
The churchyard is also the final resting place of Bernard I de Balliol, adding to the historical significance of the site.
Exploring St Mary's Church offers a rich and rewarding experience. As you approach, the church’s impressive exterior, with its flint and stone construction, is a sight to behold. The tower, dating from around 1190, stands as a testament to the church’s enduring presence through the ages.
Inside, the church’s vast interior space, filled with historical artifacts and architectural wonders, invites visitors to take a step back in time. The stunning stained glass windows, intricate carvings, and the serene ambiance of the church make it a perfect place for reflection and admiration of centuries-old craftsmanship.
Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply seeking a peaceful place to visit, St Mary's Church in Hitchin is an unmissable destination. Its rich history, architectural beauty, and the stories embedded in its walls make it a fascinating site that continues to captivate and inspire visitors from around the world.
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