Nestled in the heart of Keszthely, a charming town by Lake Balaton in Hungary, the Keszthely Synagogue (Keszthelyi zsinagóga) stands as a testament to the rich cultural and historical tapestry of the region. This neo-classical edifice, completed in 1852, has been a beacon for the Jewish community for over a century and a half, witnessing the ebb and flow of history, from the peaceful times of its early years to the turbulent periods of World War II.
The story of the Keszthely Synagogue begins in the early 18th century when the first Jewish families settled in Keszthely. By 1745, there were seven Jewish families in the town, and by 1766, a functioning Jewish community had been established. The site where the synagogue now stands was once owned by the illustrious Pethő family, who acquired it by royal donation in 1427. Later, in 1739, it was purchased by Christopher Festetics, a significant figure in the town's history.
The first synagogue on this site was an oblong house with a chapel in the yard, erected by the Jewish community in the late 18th century. However, the current building, designed by architect Christopher Hofstadter, was constructed in 1852. The synagogue underwent significant remodeling in 1894, adopting an eclectic style, and in 1898, an organ built by Sándor Országh was installed, adding to its grandeur.
The Keszthely Synagogue is a beautiful example of neo-classical architecture. Its East-West length, breadth, and height are almost equal, adhering to traditional design principles. The building is accessed through the archway of Pethő House, located on Kossuth Lajos Street #22, one of the oldest buildings in Keszthely and the birthplace of composer Károly Goldmark in 1830. Goldmark's father served as the cantor at the synagogue, adding another layer of historical significance to the site.
One of the unique features of the synagogue is its interior, which is surrounded on three sides by a gallery for women, supported by iron columns. Despite the numerous renovations over the years, the original neo-classical architecture is still preserved on the East side of the synagogue, offering a glimpse into its past.
The synagogue's history is not without its dark chapters. During World War II, the Germans used the building as a warehouse and later as a stall, resulting in the destruction of the organ. The war also brought devastating losses to the Jewish community in Keszthely, with 829 members being murdered. Today, their names are inscribed on 102 marble plates that hang around the inside perimeter of the synagogue, serving as a somber reminder of the atrocities of the Holocaust.
In front of the synagogue stands a black obelisk, a memorial for the ghetto that once occupied the same land. The members of the ghetto were taken first to Zalaegerszeg and then to Auschwitz, with the first train arriving there on July 8, 1944. This memorial ensures that the memories of those who perished are never forgotten.
The Keszthely Synagogue has undergone several renovations throughout its history. Significant renovations took place in 1930, 1945, and 1967. In 1987, part of the ceiling collapsed, prompting a comprehensive renovation plan that began in 1991. Full renovation work started in 1993, and the synagogue was reconsecrated on July 7, 1995, in the presence of the President of the Republic Árpád Göncz and the Chief Rabbi Tamás Raj. The painted decorations and work on the facade were completed in 1997, restoring the synagogue to its former glory.
Today, the Keszthely Synagogue stands not only as a place of worship but also as a living monument to the resilience and perseverance of the Jewish community in Keszthely. Its walls echo with the stories of generations past, from the early settlers of the 18th century to the survivors of World War II. Visitors to the synagogue are not only treated to a stunning example of neo-classical architecture but also to a profound journey through history.
Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, the Keszthely Synagogue offers a unique and enriching experience. As you walk through its hallowed halls, you are reminded of the enduring spirit of a community that has weathered the storms of time and continues to stand strong, a beacon of hope and resilience in the heart of Keszthely.
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