In the heart of La Orotava, a picturesque town nestled in the lush northern region of Tenerife, stands a remarkable edifice that transports visitors back in time: the Casa de los Balcones. This historic house, also known as the Casa Méndez Fonseca, is a quintessential example of Canarian architecture and a must-visit for anyone exploring the island.
The Casa de los Balcones is renowned for its stunning three-story façade, adorned with intricately carved wooden balconies, or balcones, from which the house derives its name. These balconies, crafted from the robust wood of the Canary Island pine, are a testament to the exceptional skill of the artisans who built them. As you approach the house, the first thing that catches your eye is the series of four heavy sliding windows on the ground floor, known as ventanas de guillotina. Above these, the first floor features five windows with wrought-iron balcony railings, surrounded by delicate sgraffito decorations in a vine motif. The top floor boasts five more windows, with a continuous wooden balcony running the length of the house, adorned with beautifully carved panels.
Stepping inside, the architectural marvel continues with the house's central courtyard, or patio. This space is framed by wooden balconies supported by columns made from the same Canary Island pine. The columns are topped with Corinthian capitals, adding a touch of classical elegance to the rustic wooden structure. The balcony railings are richly decorated with carvings and turned woodwork, showcasing the artistic prowess of the craftsmen.
The Casa de los Balcones was originally built in 1632 for Colonel Pedro Méndez de Castro. Over the centuries, it has changed hands numerous times, each owner leaving their mark on the property. The land on which the house stands was gifted in 1657 by Diego González Nieto to his niece Juana upon her marriage to Captain Juan de Castro Bazo y Merino. The house was expanded until its completion in 1675. One of its most notable owners was Francisco de Fonseca, a captain and mayor, whose coat of arms can still be seen above the central window on the first floor. The house remained in private hands until 1881, when it was acquired by the ancestors of its current owners from the estate of the industrialist Antonio Díaz Flores Cartaya.
The ground floor of the Casa de los Balcones is home to the Artesanía de Eladia Machado, a workshop dedicated to the traditional Canarian craft of drawn-thread embroidery, known as calados. Founded in 1932 by Doña Eladia Machado y Méndez de Lugo, this atelier is one of the most important embroidery centers in the Canary Islands. Visitors can watch skilled artisans at work, creating intricate designs using techniques passed down through generations. The workshop also offers demonstrations of basket weaving, another traditional craft of the islands.
The upper floor of the Casa de los Balcones provides a fascinating glimpse into the lifestyle of Tenerife's upper-class families in the late 19th century. This floor has been converted into a museum, with rooms arranged to reflect the period around 1880. The suite of rooms includes a salon with a library, a dining room, a lady's bedroom, a pantry, and a kitchen. The salon is particularly noteworthy, with its piano, ornate globe, and a phonograph, which was a cutting-edge piece of technology at the time. In contrast, the kitchen, with its wood-fired stove and brick oven, harks back to a much earlier era. The rooms are connected by a wooden spiral staircase and an interior balcony that overlooks the lush patio filled with plants.
Visiting the Casa de los Balcones is like stepping into a living museum. The house not only showcases the architectural and artistic heritage of the Canary Islands but also offers insights into the daily lives of its former inhabitants. As you wander through the rooms, you can almost hear the echoes of the past and imagine the vibrant life that once filled these halls.
Whether you're an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply a curious traveler, the Casa de los Balcones is a captivating destination that promises to enrich your understanding of Tenerife's cultural heritage. Its beautifully preserved structure, combined with the engaging exhibits and live demonstrations of traditional crafts, make it a highlight of any visit to La Orotava. So, take a step back in time and immerse yourself in the charm and history of the Casa de los Balcones – a true gem of the Canary Islands.
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