Peterskirche (Lindau)

In the charming town of Lindau, nestled on the edge of Lake Constance in Bavaria, Germany, lies a historical gem that often flies under the radar of many tourists: Peterskirche. This ancient church, with its roots tracing back to the 11th century, stands as a testament to the rich history and cultural heritage of the region. Though it has been deconsecrated, Peterskirche remains a site of significant historical interest, drawing visitors with its intriguing past and unique architectural features.

The Historical Significance of Peterskirche

The story of Peterskirche begins in the heart of Lindau's oldest settlement area. According to historical records, a wooden chapel dedicated to St. Peter existed here before the establishment of the canonical foundation in the area. This early chapel served a community of fishermen, which is reflected in the church’s dedication to St. Peter, the patron saint of fishermen. As the settlement grew in importance, the wooden structure was replaced by a more substantial stone church, befitting the town's elevated status.

By the late 11th century, the church had become a significant religious site, and its Romanesque core was established. However, its importance waned with the construction of the larger Stephanskirche in 1180, which became the new parish church. Peterskirche then served a monastic community of Beguines, women devoted to nursing and care for the sick. Despite ecclesiastical disapproval of such informal religious communities, the Beguines found support from the Franciscan friars, ensuring the continuation of their convent.

Architectural Evolution and Artistic Treasures

Throughout the centuries, Peterskirche underwent several architectural modifications. In the first half of the 13th century, the church was expanded westward, and a Gothic tracery window was added to the apse. Around 1300, a red chalk drawing of St. Christopher was created opposite the entrance. This period also saw the addition of figural and ornamental frescoes in the chancel arch and apse, which were later painted over.

One of the most significant artistic contributions to Peterskirche is the Lindau Passion, a series of late Gothic wall paintings on the eastern north wall, believed to date from around 1485/90. These paintings, though their attribution remains debated, are often linked to the circle of Hans Holbein the Elder. Further frescoes were added around 1520, enriching the church's interior with vibrant depictions of religious scenes.

A New Purpose: From Sacred Space to Memorial

With the advent of the Reformation in 1528, Peterskirche's religious functions gradually diminished. The Beguines converted to Protestantism but maintained their communal lifestyle until the secularization of 1802. By the 17th century, the church had been deconsecrated and repurposed for secular uses, including as an arsenal and later as a storage space for wood and coal.

In 1928, Peterskirche found a new role as a war memorial. The city council of Lindau, led by the NSDAP mayor Ludwig Siebert, launched a competition to create a memorial for the fallen soldiers. The winning design by Munich artist Marie Feulner featured a marble sculpture of an unknown soldier, inspired by Bernhard Bleeker's work in Munich's Hofgarten. Today, the church houses memorial plaques commemorating the Lindau residents who perished in the Franco-Prussian War and the two World Wars, as well as victims of Nazi persecution, including Jewish citizens of Lindau.

Exploring Peterskirche Today

Visitors to Peterskirche can appreciate its Romanesque simplicity, both inside and out. The single-nave hall church features a semicircular apse and a saddle roof. The five-story tower, integrated into the church wall, boasts a bell from the 15th century inscribed with the first line of the Ave Maria. The interior, accessible via a short staircase, reveals a floor level lower than the exterior ground, adding to the church's unique character.

Inside, the church’s walls are adorned with historical frescoes, including the St. Christopher drawing and the Lindau Passion. The northern wall, once part of a now-lost nuns' gallery, features remnants of two bricked-up round-arched windows. The church's transformation into a memorial is evident in the plaques and the poignant sculpture of the unknown soldier.

A Testament to Lindau's Rich Heritage

Peterskirche stands as a fascinating blend of religious, artistic, and historical elements. Its journey from a humble wooden chapel to a significant Romanesque church, and finally to a poignant war memorial, mirrors the broader historical currents that have shaped Lindau. For history enthusiasts and casual visitors alike, Peterskirche offers a compelling glimpse into the past, making it an essential stop on any tour of this picturesque Bavarian town.