San Filippo Neri church

The San Filippo Neri Church, locally known as Chiesa di San Filippo Neri, is a magnificent example of Rococo architecture nestled in the charming city of Lodi, Italy. This splendid church, constructed in the mid-18th century, stands as a testament to the elaborate and theatrical style that characterized the period. As one of the most significant examples of European Rococo, the San Filippo Neri Church is a must-visit destination for lovers of art and architecture.

The Facade of San Filippo Neri Church

The church’s facade, designed by the renowned architect Antonio Veneroni from Pavia, is a visual feast. Initially attributed to the local master builders Michele and Piergiacomo Sartorio, it was later clarified that they were the chief overseers of the construction rather than the designers. The facade is divided into two distinct sections by a prominent entablature. The lower section is adorned with a bust of San Filippo Neri above the main portal, while the upper section features a bust of the Virgin Mary above the central window, flanked by angels and cherubs bearing the iconographic symbols of San Filippo Neri. This intricate and dynamic facade sets the stage for the artistic wonders that await inside.

The Interior: A Rococo Masterpiece

Stepping inside the San Filippo Neri Church is like entering a jewel box of 18th-century Lombard artistry. The church is designed in a Greek cross layout and is lavishly decorated with frescoes by two eminent artists of the time: Giuseppe Coduri, known as Il Vignoli, who painted the architectural elements, and Carlo Innocenzo Carloni, who created the stunning frescoes. The ceiling of the main hall features Carloni’s masterpiece, The Assumption of the Virgin, while the presbytery ceiling showcases The Glory of San Filippo Neri. The apse is adorned with a poignant depiction of the Crucifixion, and the four pendentives at the base of the dome illustrate groups of Apostles, enhancing the celestial atmosphere of the church.

Marvelous Altars and Sacristy

The church boasts three exquisite marble altars, epitomizing the Rococo style’s refinement. These altars combine marble with wrought iron, stucco, and gilded bronze applications, creating a harmonious blend of materials that is both opulent and elegant. The balustrades surrounding the altars are particularly noteworthy, featuring colorful wrought iron inserts that add to the overall splendor.

The sacristy is another highlight, with its four pink marble columns and 18th-century cabinetry adorned with intricate carvings by Angelo Cavanna. Here, visitors can admire a large canvas by Sebastiano Galeotti, depicting The Glory of St. Francis de Sales. The sacristy also houses an 18th-century polychrome stucco statue of Our Lady of Sorrows, located in the right-side chapel niche, which is a poignant and beautifully crafted piece.

The Pipe Organ and Recent Restorations

Another gem within the San Filippo Neri Church is the pipe organ, situated above the church entrance. This instrument was built in 1779 by Andrea Serassi, who left his signature on one of the pipes, adding a personal touch to this historical piece. The organ is still in use today, filling the church with its rich, resonant tones during services and special events.

In recent years, the church has undergone significant restoration efforts to preserve its beauty and historical significance. In 2008, the roof was replaced, and the facade was restored. More comprehensive restorations began in January 2016, spearheaded by the Swiss Foundation Balz and Isabel Baechi. These efforts included detailed surveys of the entire building and the restoration of all the frescoed walls. In 2021, thanks to contributions from the Balz-Baechi Foundation and the Cariplo Foundation, the vaulted surfaces of the presbytery and the Crucifixion fresco were meticulously restored, ensuring that future generations can continue to enjoy these artistic treasures.

Visiting the San Filippo Neri Church is a journey back in time to an era of artistic opulence and spiritual devotion. The church's harmonious blend of architecture, sculpture, and painting creates an immersive experience that captivates both the eyes and the soul. Whether you are an art aficionado, a history enthusiast, or a casual traveler, the San Filippo Neri Church in Lodi is a destination that promises to inspire and enchant.