In the heart of Moulins, France, nestled at 49 Place d'Allier, lies a gem of Belle Époque architecture and cultural significance, the Grand café de Moulins. Known locally as the Grand Café, this café-restaurant is not just a place to enjoy a cup of coffee or a meal but a journey back in time to the opulence and artistry of the late 19th century. With its stunning Neo-Rococo 1900 style, the Grand café de Moulins is considered one of the most beautiful cafés in France, and it has been enchanting locals and visitors alike since its opening in 1899.
As you step into the Grand café de Moulins, you are greeted by an ambiance that harkens back to the Belle Époque era, a period marked by cultural flourishing and architectural innovation. The café was the brainchild of Renoux, a native of Montluçon, who had previously worked as a waiter in the famous Parisian brasserie Lipp. Seeking to bring a slice of Parisian café culture to Moulins, Renoux invested a substantial sum of 250,000 gold francs (equivalent to approximately 600,000 euros in 2016) to create this masterpiece.
The café’s design was entrusted to the Italian architect Louis Galfione-Garetta, then the director of the municipal school of fine arts. Galfione-Garetta's vision was to create a fantastical décor that hinted at the emerging Art Nouveau style, characterized by its curvilinear and organic forms. The interior is a testament to this vision, with its sweeping lines, intricate stucco work, and lavish decorations.
The Grand café de Moulins boasts a grand rectangular hall on the ground floor, divided into two sections by a central metallic beam signed by Eiffel, covered in stucco and supporting an enormous bronze chandelier. The rear of the hall is dominated by a mezzanine with an intricately wrought iron balustrade, complete with a clock, adding to the café's grandeur.
The longitudinal walls are adorned with pilasters of stucco, interspersed with curved wooden elements and topped with enormous mirrors framed in gold. These mirrors create an illusion of infinite space, adding to the café's enchanting atmosphere. The ceiling of the front section of the hall, known as the café area, features a fresco by Auguste Sauroy depicting the legend of Gambrinus, the mythical king of Flanders and Brabant, credited with the invention of beer. The rear section, initially the brasserie area, was later adorned with a large 1930s-style glass roof, replacing an original fresco.
The late 19th century saw the rise of café-brasseries across France, becoming central to the intellectual and social life of cities. The Grand café de Moulins was no exception. It quickly became a favorite haunt for the local elite, including high-ranking officials, wealthy merchants, and livestock traders. The café's ambiance was refined and sophisticated, offering a venue for social gatherings and intellectual discussions.
One of the café's most notable patrons was Gabrielle Coco Chanel, who frequented the establishment while working as a seamstress at the nearby Maison Grampayre. It is said that Chanel, along with her aunt Adrienne, mingled with the bourgeoisie and military officers at the Grand café, marking her first contact with high society. This period in her life was pivotal, as it was here that she earned the nickname Coco, inspired by a song she performed at the café.
The Grand café de Moulins has witnessed numerous historical events and transformations over the years. In its early days, the café featured a cosmorama mouvant, a spectacle that used lenses and tableaux to present picturesque scenes from around the world. By 1905, it introduced the first cinematograph screenings in Moulins, with the projection apparatus mounted on the balcony and the orchestra playing from the mezzanine.
During the post-war period, the café's clientele diversified, earning it the nickname Grand jus among the local youth. The café's historical and architectural significance was recognized in 1978 when its façade and interiors were listed as historical monuments. Subsequent renovations, including a major restoration in 1993, have preserved its original charm while updating its facilities.
Today, the Grand café de Moulins continues to be a beloved institution in Moulins. Its current owner, Christian Belin, along with his daughters Maud and Alexandra, have maintained the café's legacy while modernizing its operations. In 2013, the Grand café earned the prestigious Maître Restaurateur label, and in 2014, the kitchen was expanded to enhance the culinary experience for its patrons.
Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply someone looking to enjoy a delightful meal in a stunning setting, the Grand café de Moulins offers an unforgettable experience. Its walls echo the stories of a bygone era, and its grandeur continues to captivate all who step through its doors. So, the next time you find yourself in Moulins, make sure to visit this architectural and cultural treasure, and immerse yourself in the timeless elegance of the Grand café de Moulins.
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