Situated in the charming town of Neuilly-sur-Seine, just a stone's throw from the bustling heart of Paris, the Synagogue de Neuilly stands as a beacon of history, culture, and resilience. This remarkable synagogue, dating back to 1878, is the oldest in the Parisian suburbs and offers a fascinating glimpse into the Jewish community's rich heritage in the region.
The story of the Jewish community in Neuilly-sur-Seine begins with the establishment of the Maison de refuge pour l'enfance israélite in 1866 by Coralie Cahen. This refuge, initially located in Romainville and later moved to Neuilly, served as a sanctuary for Jewish children and destitute women, including prostitutes and their offspring. Known simply as the Refuge, it became a vital institution, particularly after World War II, providing shelter to many young Jews without families and later to those displaced by the Algerian War of Independence.
By 1869, a burgeoning Jewish community had formed in Neuilly, initially congregating in an apartment at 15 rue Louis-Philippe. Under the leadership of Godchaux Oulry, a Lorraine native, the community raised the necessary funds to construct a dedicated synagogue. Designed by the renowned architect Émile Ullmann, a Prix de Rome laureate, the synagogue was built in an elegant Neo-Byzantine style and inaugurated in 1878. The facade proudly displays a Hebrew inscription from Psalm 118:19, Open for me the gates of righteousness; I will enter and give thanks to the Lord.
The synagogue's architectural journey did not end with its initial construction. In 1937, architects Germain Debré and Julien Hirsch undertook a significant renovation, transforming the building with an Art Deco style and relocating the main entrance to rue Ancelle. Despite the dark days of World War II, when many Jewish communities faced devastation, the Synagogue de Neuilly remained open. However, it was not untouched by tragedy. The synagogue's rabbi, Robert Meyers, and his wife Suzanne Bauer were arrested in Haute-Savoie and deported to Auschwitz in 1943. Commemorative plaques outside the synagogue honor the memory of the deported Jews from Neuilly and the courageous actions of the Righteous Among the Nations who aided them. Another plaque on rue Édouard Nortier solemnly remembers the 17 children, aged 3 to 11, who were taken from a former clinic run by nuns, deported, and murdered by the Nazis on July 25, 1944.
The post-war period saw the community struggling to rebuild. Rabbi David Feuerwerker, who served from 1946 to 1948, played a crucial role in revitalizing the community by establishing study and youth circles. His successor, Rabbi René Kapel, continued this effort, albeit briefly, from 1948 to 1949. Rabbi Édouard Gourévitch, a distinguished member of the Resistance, took over in 1949 and continued to nurture the community's growth. The arrival of Sephardic Jews from Algeria in the 1960s and early 1970s further enriched the community, leading to a fusion with the Algerian Sephardic community of the Oratoire d'Auteuil. This influx brought significant changes, including more frequent services, the retirement of the Ashkenazi cantor Marcel Papier, and the appointment of Sephardic cantors Michel Abib and later Maurice Abourmad.
In 1975, Rabbi Jérôme Cahen and his wife reinvigorated the community's activities with a focus on youth engagement. The synagogue celebrated its centenary in 1978 with a grand ceremony attended by dignitaries, including former Prime Minister Michel Debré. Following Rabbi Cahen's death in 1988, Rabbi Alexis Blum took over until 2009, succeeded by Rabbi Michaël Azoulay, who continues to serve the community. The establishment of the European Jewish University in 1999 by Grand Rabbi René-Samuel Sirat and Rabbi Claude Sultan, followed by the creation of the Jérôme Cahen Cultural Center in 2004, further cemented the synagogue's role as a cultural and educational hub.
The Synagogue de Neuilly has not been without its challenges in recent years. In January 2015, an individual made threats against the soldiers guarding the synagogue, resulting in a six-month prison sentence. Despite such incidents, the synagogue remains a steadfast symbol of the Jewish community's resilience and unity.
Today, the Synagogue de Neuilly is not just a place of worship but a vibrant center of Jewish life, culture, and history. Its walls echo with stories of perseverance, faith, and community spirit, making it a must-visit for anyone interested in the rich tapestry of Jewish heritage in France. Whether you're exploring its architectural beauty, reflecting on its poignant history, or participating in its lively community events, the Synagogue de Neuilly offers a profound and enriching experience.
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