Church of Gesù, Nice

Tucked away in the charming streets of Old Nice, the Church of Gesù, also known locally as église Saint-Jacques-le-Majeur de Nice, stands as a testament to the rich history and artistic grandeur of the Baroque period. This magnificent church, constructed in the 17th century by the Jesuits, not only serves as a place of worship but also as a beacon of cultural and architectural heritage in the heart of Nice.

The Historical Tapestry of the Church of Gesù

The story of the Church of Gesù begins in 1603 when a wealthy merchant from Nice, Pons Ceva, residing in Rome, decided to fund the construction of a Jesuit college in Nice. Guided by the advice of Saint Philip Neri, this generous donation laid the foundation for what would become a significant religious and educational institution. The Jesuits officially settled in Nice on November 15, 1605, and by 1606, the college was operational.

The first stone of the college was laid on February 12, 1607, and the Jesuits began acquiring nearby houses to build their chapel. This process continued until 1612, culminating in the laying of the first stone of the church, affectionately called the Chiesetta, on June 3, 1612. Initially dedicated to the Holy Name of Jesus and Saint Just, the church saw its first services in the mid-17th century.

To accommodate the growing congregation, the Jesuits purchased an adjacent house and began expanding the church in 1642. By 1650, the main structure was complete, and the church hosted its first sermon. The architectural similarities between the Church of Gesù and other notable structures, such as the Church of Saints-Martyrs in Turin and the Church of Gesù in Rome, suggest the influence of the renowned architect Jean-André Guiberto, although definitive attribution remains uncertain.

With the suppression of the Jesuit Order by Pope Clement XIV in 1773, the Jesuits were expelled, and the college and church were repurposed for royal schools. Following the Concordat of 1801, the church became a parish in 1802, under the patronage of Saint James the Greater. The current Baroque façade, designed by Aycart, was added in 1825, and the church was designated a historical monument on October 25, 1971.

Architectural Marvels of the Church of Gesù

The Church of Gesù is a stunning example of Baroque architecture, characterized by its intricate details and grandeur. The façade, with its Corinthian columns and mannerist decorations, reflects the influence of both Piedmontese and Roman Baroque styles. The church's unique bell tower, standing at 42 meters, is constructed of bare bricks—a rarity in Nice—and topped with a dome covered in polychrome tiles, a nod to Ligurian fashion.

Inside, the church boasts a 36-meter-long and 14-meter-wide barrel vault adorned with motifs depicting the life of Saint James the Greater. These decorations were completed in the early 19th century, based on designs by the local painter Hercule Trachel, who also contributed to the frescoes in the Monastery of Cimiez.

The Enchanting Chapels

The Church of Gesù houses several chapels, each with its own unique charm and historical significance. On the right side from the entrance, visitors will find:

• The Chapel of the Sacred Heart of Jesus and the Immaculate Heart of Mary: This chapel features a central painting of the Adoration of the Sacred Hearts, framed by a retable with columns topped by angels representing Faith and Hope.
• The Chapel of Saint Joseph: Initially dedicated to the Madonna of the Seven Sorrows, this smaller chapel displays a poignant scene of the recumbent Christ with the Virgin Mary, pierced by a sword, symbolizing Simeon's prophecy.
• The Chapel of Saints Louis de Gonzague and Honoré: Originally dedicated to Saint Francis Xavier, this chapel now honors both Saint Honoré, Bishop of Amiens, and Saint Louis de Gonzague. The central painting depicts Saint Honoré receiving communion.

On the left side from the entrance, visitors can explore:

• The Chapel of Saints Crispin and Crispinian: Decorated with a painting of the two martyr brothers, this chapel illustrates the 17th-century shoemaking trade, with the saints depicted in their workshop.
• The Chapel of Saint Michael the Archangel: This smaller chapel showcases a dramatic painting of Saint Michael vanquishing the demon.
• The Chapel of the Madonna of the Rosary: Once the seat of the Rosary Confraternity, this chapel features a painting of the Madonna bestowing the Rosary upon Saint Dominic and Saint Catherine of Siena, alongside an adoration scene with Jesuit saints.

Other Noteworthy Features

The church also houses a remarkable pulpit, located on the right side after the Chapel of Saints Louis de Gonzague and Honoré. Dating back to the early 19th century, this pulpit is notable for its missing sounding board and a striking feature—a Jesuit's black-robed arm holding a removable cross, which preachers could brandish to emphasize their sermons.

The vault of the nave, adorned with paintings by Hercule Trachel, features medallions illustrating events from the lives of Saint James the Greater and Christ, adding to the rich tapestry of art and history within the church.

In conclusion, the Church of Gesù is not just a place of worship but a treasure trove of Baroque art and architecture. Its storied past, intricate design, and serene chapels make it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the vibrant city of Nice. Whether you're a history buff, an art enthusiast, or simply seeking a moment of tranquility, the Church of Gesù offers a captivating glimpse into the spiritual and cultural heritage of this beautiful Mediterranean city.