In the heart of Oviedo, nestled within the historic Plaza de Alfonso II el Casto, stands the quaint yet captivating Capilla de la Balesquida. This charming chapel, with its rich history and unique architectural features, offers a glimpse into the spiritual and cultural heritage of the city. It is a must-visit for anyone exploring the picturesque streets of Oviedo.
The origins of the Capilla de la Balesquida date back to the 13th century when a noblewoman named Doña Velasquita Giráldez, also known as Balesquida, bequeathed a hospital for pilgrims and citizens, along with other properties, to the cofradía (brotherhood) of tailors in Oviedo. This act of generosity led to the founding of the Cofradía de la Balesquida in 1232. The chapel and the brotherhood both bear her name in honor of her significant contributions to the city.
Originally serving as a place of worship for the tailors' guild, the chapel has undergone several renovations and reconstructions over the centuries. The current structure, which dates back to 1725, showcases a Baroque style, with subsequent renovations in 1876 and 1952 enhancing its architectural and decorative elements. The chapel remains dedicated to the Virgen de la Esperanza, a figure of great devotion among the local community.
The Capilla de la Balesquida is a single-nave rectangular building measuring 14 by 7 meters. Its barrel-vaulted ceiling, supported by transverse arches and adorned with six lunettes, creates an intimate and serene atmosphere. The entrance features a stone-paved atrium and a semi-circular arched doorway, inviting visitors to step into its historical embrace.
The exterior of the chapel is modest yet elegant, with its pale yellow façade accented by warm stone details. A distinctive feature is the presence of scissors on the corner balcony, symbolizing its historical connection to the tailors' guild. This subtle yet meaningful detail adds to the chapel's unique character and charm.
Stepping inside the Capilla de la Balesquida, visitors are greeted by a rich array of Baroque art and religious iconography. The main altar, dating back to the 17th century, is a stunning example of Baroque craftsmanship. It houses the central niche where the image of the Virgen de la Esperanza stands, flanked by two pairs of gilded Corinthian columns. The Virgin herself, a beautiful 18th-century figure, is adorned with garments donated by the brotherhood and other devotees. She proudly wears the Gold Medal of the City of Oviedo, awarded by the city council on May 25, 1952. The altar is crowned by a relief depicting the Holy Spirit, adding a divine touch to the already magnificent ensemble.
On the left side of the chapel, the altar dedicated to Saint Jude Thaddeus features a polychrome wooden statue from the 18th century, framed by two stipes supporting the altar's upper section. This altar was restored in 2006, revealing the vibrant colors of the statue.
The right side of the chapel is home to the altar dedicated to Saint Bernard of Clairvaux. This altar is composed of two levels and three sections, separated by Solomonic columns. Originally, each level was a separate altar, but they were combined in 1952. The upper level features statues of Saint Bernard in the center, flanked by Saint Anthony and Saint Eulogius (also known as Saint Sebastian). The lower level showcases Saint Bridget in the center, with Saint Joseph and the Child and Saint Francis on either side. These polychrome wooden figures date back to the 17th and 18th centuries, except for the statue of Saint Eulogius, which is from the 16th century.
Adding to the chapel's artistic richness are two paintings by Francisco Reiter, an Oviedo-born painter active in the late 18th century. These paintings, located on the back wall of the chapel, depict significant moments in the life of Saint Bernard: his appointment as abbot of Clairvaux and the Virgin Mary, Saint Benedict, and Saint Lawrence interceding for his health. Additionally, the second section of the nave features polychrome wooden reliefs in a popular Baroque style, illustrating the appearance of the crucified Christ to Saint Bernard.
A notable highlight within the presbytery is a Gothic-style early 13th-century polychrome wooden statue of the Virgin and Child. This exquisite piece holds a prominent place in the chapel, symbolizing the enduring faith and devotion of the local community.
Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or a spiritual seeker, the Capilla de la Balesquida offers a unique and enriching experience. Its blend of historical significance, architectural beauty, and artistic treasures makes it a jewel in the heart of Oviedo. As you explore the chapel, take a moment to reflect on its storied past and the enduring legacy of Doña Velasquita Giráldez, whose generosity continues to inspire and captivate visitors to this day.
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