Baptistry of Neon

The Baptistry of Neon, known locally as the Battistero Neoniano, is a splendid architectural gem located in Ravenna, Italy. This ancient structure, dating back to the 5th century, stands as a testament to the rich history and artistic heritage of the early Christian period. Named after Bishop Neon, who completed its construction, the Baptistry of Neon is also referred to as the Baptistry of the Orthodox, distinguishing it from the Arian Baptistry built by the Ostrogoths.

A Glimpse into History

The origins of the Baptistry of Neon are closely tied to the historical shifts in Ravenna during the late Roman Empire. When the episcopal seat moved from Classe to Ravenna at the end of the 4th century, Bishop Ursus initiated the construction of a new cathedral, the Ursiana Cathedral. The Baptistry was part of this grand ecclesiastical complex, started by Bishop Ursus and completed around 450 AD by Bishop Neon, who added the stunning dome adorned with intricate mosaics.

Interestingly, a local legend, though historically unfounded, suggests that the Baptistry was built atop the calidarium of ancient Roman baths. This captivating tale adds a layer of mystique to the already fascinating history of the Baptistry of Neon.

Architectural Marvel

The Baptistry of Neon boasts an octagonal design, a shape imbued with symbolic significance in early Christian numerology. The number eight represents resurrection, combining the seven days of creation with the eternal day of God's rest. The exterior of the Baptistry is relatively simple, constructed from brick and featuring pilasters and blind arches that harken back to Northern architectural models, such as the Palatine Basilica in Trier and the Basilica of San Simpliciano in Milan.

Due to the subsidence typical of Ravenna, the Baptistry is now partially buried, with its entrance situated about two meters below the current ground level. Despite this, the structure remains an impressive sight, with four small apses added in the 10th century that enhance its architectural complexity.

Interior Splendor

Stepping inside the Baptistry of Neon is like entering a treasure trove of early Christian art. The interior is dominated by the magnificent mosaic decoration of the dome, a masterpiece from the time of Bishop Neon. The central medallion of the dome depicts the Baptism of Christ, set against a shimmering gold background. In this scene, John the Baptist is shown baptizing Christ, who stands waist-deep in the River Jordan, personified by a figure on the right. Above Christ, the Holy Spirit descends in the form of a dove.

Surrounding this central image is a second ring featuring the twelve apostles, each holding a crown to offer to Christ. The apostles, depicted in alternating white and gold garments, are set against a deep blue background. This vibrant color palette and the dynamic, almost lifelike poses of the figures reflect the ongoing influence of classical art, while also hinting at the emerging Byzantine style.

The outermost ring of the dome presents a series of architectural illusions, with niches flanked by columns creating a play of concave and convex forms. These niches contain thrones and altars, symbolizing the heavenly realm and the presence of Christ. The artistry of these mosaics, with their intricate details and vivid colors, is nothing short of breathtaking.

Decorative Elements

The walls of the Baptistry are equally adorned with artistic treasures. The upper register features eight large arches, each containing three smaller arches. The central arch of each set houses a window, while the flanking arches are decorated with stucco figures of prophets, originally painted but now largely lost to time. These prophets, representing both major and minor biblical figures, underscore the Baptistry's role in the catechetical instruction of new Christians.

Below these arches, the walls are lined with panels of porphyry and green marble, set within geometric frames. The architraves above these panels are decorated with mosaics of vine scrolls and human figures, adding to the rich tapestry of visual storytelling within the Baptistry.

The Baptismal Font

At the heart of the Baptistry lies the baptismal font, a marble basin that has undergone several modifications over the centuries. The current octagonal font dates to the 16th century, though it retains elements from the original 5th-century structure, including the ambo from which the priest would administer the sacrament of baptism.

In conclusion, the Baptistry of Neon is not merely a historical monument; it is a living testament to the artistic and spiritual fervor of early Christianity. Its mosaics, architecture, and overall design offer a window into a world where faith and art were inextricably linked, making it an essential destination for anyone visiting Ravenna. The Baptistry of Neon remains a beacon of the city's rich heritage, inviting visitors to step back in time and experience the splendor of a bygone era.