Old Synagogue (Sopron)

In the charming town of Sopron, Hungary, lies a hidden gem of immense historical and architectural significance: the Old Synagogue, locally known as Ózsinagóga. This early Gothic synagogue, one of the oldest and most significant in Central Europe, offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the past, telling the story of the Jewish community in Sopron and their enduring legacy.

The History of the Old Synagogue

The Old Synagogue dates back to the 13th century when the first written records of the Jewish community in Sopron emerged. At that time, around 10 to 16 Jewish families lived on what was known as Zsidó Street. Despite facing restrictions that prevented them from purchasing houses in other parts of the city, the Jewish residents coexisted with their Christian neighbors, primarily engaging in trade and finance. Although none of them accumulated significant wealth, they managed to construct this remarkable synagogue around the year 1300.

According to the regulations of the time, synagogues could not be built directly on the street line, which explains the presence of a courtyard in front of the Old Synagogue. This courtyard served as a place for settling disputes and conducting business transactions with Christians. In 1440, Queen Elizabeth of Luxembourg established the first ghetto in Sopron, renaming Zsidó Street to Új Street, a name it retains to this day.

In 1526, the Jewish community faced accusations of collaborating with the Turks, leading to their expulsion from Sopron. The synagogue was sold in 1530 and underwent significant changes, eventually being converted into residential buildings. Despite this transformation, the memory of the synagogue persisted, with references to it as a Jewish temple as late as 1792.

In 1967, the remnants of the Old Synagogue were excavated and partially restored, allowing visitors to appreciate its historical and architectural significance once again.

Exploring the Old Synagogue

As you step into the courtyard through an 18th-century arched gate, you are transported back in time. To your right, you can see the entrance to a 15th-century hospital that once stood alongside the synagogue. The main synagogue building stands before you, with its three-bay facade adorned with a simple cornice and narrow arched windows. The entrance, featuring a square stone-framed door, leads to a narrow vaulted corridor that takes you to the men's prayer hall, the women's prayer room, and the ritual bath (mikveh).

The rectangular prayer hall is a marvel of early Gothic architecture, with its original pointed arch entrance and side jambs dating back to around 1300. The red-painted geometric patterns on the tympanum above the entrance have miraculously survived the centuries. Inside, you can admire the original Gothic arches, stone ribs, and rose windows. The vault, inspired by the Regensburg model, originally consisted of three cross-vault sections, with the eastern and western sections enlarged by additional ribs. The sanctuary vault follows Christian traditions, closing with three sides of an octagon.

One of the most striking features of the synagogue is the richly decorated Aron Kodesh (Torah Ark) on the eastern wall, elevated above the floor. The stone frame is adorned with intricate carvings of grape clusters and leaves, painted in natural colors. Above the triangular tympanum, a rose window adds to the beauty of this sacred space. The niche below the Aron Kodesh was used to store ritual objects, while the Torah scrolls were kept in the Aron Kodesh itself, to be ceremoniously taken out and placed on the bimah (reading platform) during services.

The bimah, with its hexagonal base, has been reconstructed based on historical evidence. Some theories suggest that the original bimah may have been a wooden structure on a stone base. Narrow windows on the western wall allowed women to observe the services from their separate prayer room, one of the earliest such rooms in Europe.

The Women's Prayer Room

Following ancient customs, women participated in the services from a separate room, observing through narrow windows. This women's prayer room, located behind the main hall, had its own entrance and is one of the earliest examples of such a space in Europe.

Auxiliary Buildings

Adjacent to the synagogue was a hospital that also provided lodging for travelers, and a ritual bath, of which only a stone-lined well remains. The ritual bath, or mikveh, played a crucial role in Jewish religious life, symbolizing purification. The well, located in a small separate room, was used for ritual immersion, following the ancient laws of Moses that required immersion in flowing water.

On the southern side of the property stood the house of the synagogue servant, or shamash.

The Exhibition

Today, the women's prayer room houses an exhibition that not only showcases the synagogue's history but also displays religious artifacts and illustrations, as well as finds from the excavation of the mikveh. This exhibition provides a deeper understanding of the religious and cultural life of the Jewish community in Sopron.

The Old Synagogue in Sopron is more than just a historical monument; it is a testament to the resilience and enduring legacy of the Jewish community in Hungary. Its walls whisper stories of faith, perseverance, and coexistence, making it an essential destination for anyone interested in history, architecture, and cultural heritage.