In the heart of Tarascon, France, the majestic Sainte-Marthe, known locally as Collégiale royale Sainte-Marthe de Tarascon, stands as a testament to centuries of history and legend. This architectural marvel, originally constructed in the late 12th century, has been a beacon of faith and culture, drawing visitors with its intriguing past and stunning design.
The legend of Sainte-Marthe is as captivating as the church itself. According to tradition, Martha of Bethany arrived in southern France in 48 AD, fleeing persecution with her siblings. Near Marseille, she founded a monastery and led an ascetic life. Her journey took her to Tarascon, then known as Nerluc, where she famously tamed the fearsome Tarasque beast. This tale of bravery and faith has been woven into the fabric of the church’s history, attracting pilgrims and visitors alike.
The church was consecrated on June 1, 1197, and its Romanesque style was later enhanced with Gothic elements in the 14th century. Over the centuries, it underwent further transformations, notably in the 15th and 17th centuries. Despite suffering damage during World War II, extensive restorations have preserved its grandeur, allowing visitors to step back in time and experience its historical significance.
The South Portal of Sainte-Marthe is a striking feature, though its original Romanesque sculptures have been lost to time. Influenced by the Roman fortifications of Nîmes, the portal boasts a grand arch and a decorative gallery. This entrance invites you into a world where history and artistry converge, setting the stage for the wonders within.
Rising above the church is the Gothic bell tower, commissioned by King René in 1470. This tower, built atop a Romanesque belfry, was meticulously restored in 1975 after being damaged in World War II. Its elegant spire is a symbol of resilience, echoing the church’s enduring presence in Tarascon’s skyline.
Inside Sainte-Marthe, the Gothic architecture captivates with its ribbed vaults supported by clustered pillars. The side chapels, integrated into the nave walls between the 16th and 18th centuries, add layers of history. The vaulted ceilings are adorned with keystones depicting the Lamb of God, St. George, Archangel Michael, and St. Martha herself. Paintings, some dating back to the 16th century, narrate the life of St. Martha, enriching the spiritual and cultural experience.
The church houses a historic organ, originally built in 1484 and expanded in 1604 by organ builder Pierre Marchand. This instrument, with its 26 registers, is a masterpiece of craftsmanship and a protected monument. Its music fills the church with a timeless sound, connecting past and present in harmonious reverence.
Opposite the Chapel of St. Martha lies her reliquary, a gilded copper shrine, replicating the original gold shrine donated by King Louis XI in 1470. This relic underscores the church’s importance as a pilgrimage site. Nearby, the kenotaph by Francesco Laurana includes holes for pilgrims to touch the relics, a practice that once allowed intimate connection with the divine.
Descending into the crypt, you find yourself in a space dating back to the 1st century. The sarcophagus, from the 3rd century, is adorned with biblical reliefs. Despite damage over the years, the crypt remains a sacred place, whispering stories of faith and devotion from ages past.
Exploring Sainte-Marthe is a journey through history, legend, and art. Each corner of the church tells a story, from the ornate South Portal to the serene crypt. As you wander through its hallowed halls, you’ll feel the weight of centuries and the lightness of faith that has sustained this remarkable edifice.
Whether you’re drawn by its architectural beauty, its legendary tales, or its spiritual significance, Sainte-Marthe offers an unforgettable experience. It stands not just as a monument to the past, but as a living testament to the enduring power of belief and the artistry of those who built it. A visit to Sainte-Marthe is a step into a world where history and legend intertwine, creating a tapestry as rich and vibrant as the Provence sun.
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