St. Lorenz Church in Travemünde, a picturesque district of Lübeck in Schleswig-Holstein, Germany, stands as a testament to both the resilience and artistic richness of the region. This single-nave brick church, with its storied past and stunning architectural features, is a must-visit for anyone exploring the historical tapestry of northern Germany.
The history of St. Lorenz Church is as intricate as the patterns in its stained glass windows. The first indirect mention of a church on this site dates back to a papal document from May 11, 1235. However, it wasn't until 1259 that a Gothic church was explicitly noted. This early structure suffered the fate of many medieval buildings, succumbing to a city fire in 1522. Yet, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the church was rebuilt in the 1540s on the same venerable foundations.
The church we see today began to take its current form in the aftermath of the destructive Count's Feud in 1534. Its construction stretched into the 17th century, culminating in the completion of its tower in 1621. An intriguing document from 1620 boasts that the new tower was higher and more beautiful than its predecessor, which had been destroyed a century earlier.
St. Lorenz is a masterpiece of brick Gothic architecture, a style that is both robust and aesthetically pleasing. The church’s interior is adorned with exquisite ceiling and wall paintings, rediscovered during a renovation in 1990. One of its most treasured artifacts is the Triumph Cross, with a late Gothic corpus dating back to the late 15th century, now restored to its original liturgical position between the nave and the choir.
Visitors are often captivated by the wooden sculpture of St. George and the Dragon, a late Gothic carving attributed to the workshop of Henning von der Heyde around 1510. This piece, which once graced the now-demolished St. Jürgen's Hospital, adds a touch of medieval mystique to the church’s entrance hall.
The baroque altar, a gift from Anna Magdalena Schröder in 1723, is a highlight of the church's interior. Crafted by Lübeck master Hieronymus Jakob Hassenberg, the altar is a stunning example of baroque artistry, incorporating a Gothic tomb slab as its mensa. The richly carved pulpit, dating from 1735, complements the altar with its elaborate ornamentation.
The church's bells, with their own dramatic history of confiscation and return during World War II, provide a resonant soundtrack to Travemünde’s daily life. The oldest bell, cast in 1604, still rings out its melodious tones today.
The organ, originally installed in 1966 by Rudolf von Beckerath Orgelbau, was repositioned during the 1991 renovation to the newly designed west gallery. This move, along with modifications by the Hinrich Otto Paschen workshop, restored the organ’s visual and acoustic harmony with the church’s baroque style.
St. Lorenz is not just a relic of the past but a vibrant part of the community. The church hosts regular services and is open for visitors from April to October, offering a peaceful retreat and a chance to reflect amidst its historical surroundings. Music lovers can enjoy market concerts featuring organ music every Thursday from June to September, as well as Sunday concerts and evening music events.
The churchyard of St. Lorenz holds four protected graves from the 1830s, including the grave cross of Johann Hermann von Duhn, a Lübeck councilman and Travemünde’s city captain. These graves tell stories of the people who shaped the community, adding another layer to the church’s rich history.
In conclusion, St. Lorenz Church is more than just a building; it is a living chronicle of Travemünde’s history and culture. Its walls echo tales of resilience, artistry, and faith, making it an essential stop for anyone wanting to delve into the heart of Schleswig-Holstein’s heritage. Whether you're an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply a curious traveler, St. Lorenz offers a captivating glimpse into the past and a serene space for contemplation in the present.
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