Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste

The Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste, locally known as the église Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Valence, stands as a testament to the rich historical and architectural heritage of Valence, France. Nestled in the heart of the old town on Place Saint-Jean, this Catholic church is perched on the highest point of Valence, a symbol of its ancient origins and significance.

A Journey Through Time

The history of the Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste is shrouded in mystery, with its origins tracing back to the early Middle Ages. While the exact date of its construction remains uncertain, records mention the church as early as 1189 in the inventory of the Valence chapter. However, the structure is believed to have existed long before this, possibly making it one of the earliest Christian worship sites in the nascent city of Valence, then known as Valentia.

The church has witnessed numerous significant events over the centuries. It hosted various councils, including the first Council of Valence in 374 and another in 855. The lower part of the bell tower-porch dates back to the 12th century, showcasing the enduring legacy of this venerable structure.

Trials and Tribulations

The Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste has endured its fair share of trials. In the 15th century, the church underwent several phases of renovation due to its deteriorating condition. The Wars of Religion in the same century brought further suffering. On All Saints' Night in 1567, armed Protestants invaded Valence, setting fire to both the cathedral of Saint-Apollinaire and the Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste.

Restoration efforts in the early 17th century aimed to revive the church, although the nave remained devoid of side aisles. In 1720, under the direction of Bishop Jean de Catelan, the church was reconstructed, and inhumations within the church were prohibited. The significant cemetery adjacent to the apse was relocated to the east, near the Faubourg Saint-Jacques, in 1776. Today, only the tomb of Christophoro d'Authier de Sisgau, the bishop of the Bethlehem diocese and founder of Valence's first seminary in 1639, remains.

In 1785, a fire ravaged the top of the bell tower, leading to the replacement of the jacquemart with a wrought iron campanile. The French Revolution brought further turmoil. In 1790, after a service, the Count of Voisins was assassinated by a population frustrated with the increasing presence of military troops. This event transformed the church's role and function. With the upheavals of 1793, religious celebrations ceased, and the church was repurposed as a meeting place for primary assemblies, a military equipment warehouse, and a prison for war captives.

Architectural Marvels and Restoration

The Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste reopened for worship on March 24, 1801, becoming an annex of the cathedral Saint-Apollinaire. Between 1840 and 1849, the church underwent extensive reconstruction based on designs by diocesan architect H. Epailly. The project faced delays and higher costs due to the need for deeper foundations, as the presence of stones mixed with human remains could not support the nave as before.

The church's architecture reflects influences from Saint-Apollinaire, featuring semicircular arcades, openings with columns and capitals, blind arcature friezes under the roof pass, and dentil cornices. The Second World War brought further challenges, with bombings on August 15, 1944, destroying the church's stained glass windows. By 1945, master glassmakers Thomas and Balayn had recreated the windows of the choir and side aisles.

In 1966, the church's interior was renovated, with the choir reconfigured following the liturgical reform pronounced during the Second Vatican Council. Architect J. Hartman designed the liturgical furniture, including chandeliers, the cross, and statues of the Virgin Mary and Saint Joseph, which can still be seen today.

The church underwent another phase of restoration in 2005-2006 as part of the Valence Heritage Convention. The facades were cleaned and coated with tinted limewash, and the bell tower facades were cleaned and repointed. The original bay of the south portal was reopened, and a window was installed, allowing the capitals of the bell tower to be admired from the outside without exposure to deterioration.

The Neo-Romanesque Bell Tower-Porch

The bell tower-porch, originally from the 15th-16th centuries, was renovated in 1861 by architect Auguste Chauffeur. He aimed to preserve the primitive character of the original bell tower while proposing a complete re-facing of the four facades. The tympanum was adorned with a bas-relief depicting Saint John the Baptist.

Chauffeur incorporated architectural and decorative elements from the early Romanesque style, including semicircular openings, twin bays with prominent archivolts covered with billets, and Lombard bands connected by blind arcades. The use of Châteauneuf-sur-Isère molasse stone, which has aged and weathered over time, gives the bell tower a distinctly medieval appearance. This material is also found in other Valence buildings, such as the Maison des Têtes.

Romanesque Capitals

At the entrance of the bell tower, eight Romanesque capitals remain, offering a glimpse into the church's medieval past. Four capitals feature foliage decorations, sometimes adorned with fish or sculpted heads. Two capitals depict masks spitting foliage, while two historiated capitals occupy the northeast and southwest corners. The northern capital, known as the Woman with Serpents, depicts a nude figure, likely a woman, surrounded by hybrid animals, symbolizing biblical themes of lust. The southern capital, Tobias Capturing the Fish, shows Tobias riding a fish and holding a knife, with another figure, possibly the archangel Raphael or Tobias's blind father, standing nearby.

In conclusion, the Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste is not just a place of worship but a historical monument that has withstood the test of time. Its walls tell stories of resilience, faith, and transformation, making it a must-visit for anyone exploring the rich heritage of Valence. Whether you're an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or a curious traveler, this church offers a captivating glimpse into the past and a serene space for reflection.