Nestled in the heart of Viterbo, Italy, Santa Maria Nuova, known locally as Chiesa di Santa Maria Nuova, is a captivating Romanesque church that stands as a testament to the city’s rich historical tapestry. Its unassuming facade belies the depth of history and artistry contained within, making it a must-visit for anyone exploring this ancient city.
The origins of Santa Maria Nuova are steeped in legend and history. According to the colorful tales of the 15th-century chronicler Annio da Viterbo, the church was founded in 380 by the descendants of Hercules, the mythical founder of Viterbo. While this is likely more myth than fact, there is no denying the church’s ancient roots. The current structure dates back to before 1080, built upon the site of an earlier sacred building, possibly from the 6th century, or even a pagan temple dedicated to Jupiter.
Over the centuries, Santa Maria Nuova became a focal point for the community. It was the preferred venue for important assemblies of the Comune, and it housed the city’s treasury and archives. The church also served as the headquarters for the Arte dei Bifolchi and was the burial place for noble families, including the Monaldeschi. However, from the 16th century onwards, the church experienced a period of decline, with its Romanesque purity being altered by various additions and modifications.
The facade of Santa Maria Nuova is simple yet elegant, featuring three narrow windows and a portal crowned by a lunette. A marble head, believed to be of Jupiter, adds a touch of ancient mystery. At the left corner, supported by a slender column, is an exquisite hexagonal pulpit dedicated to Saint Thomas Aquinas, who preached here in 1266.
Inside, the church reveals its majestic Romanesque architecture, influenced by Lombard styles. The basilica is divided into three naves by rows of six monolithic columns, each topped with uniquely carved capitals. The ceiling, adorned with painted floral motifs, dates back to the late 15th century, adding a vibrant splash of color to the interior.
As you wander through Santa Maria Nuova, you’ll encounter a fascinating array of historical artifacts. The right nave houses various stone fragments, including a stele with the original 1080 donation act and a marble bust marking the tomb of the Viterbo scholar Orazio Carnevalini. The holy water fonts, dating back to the 12th century, are a testament to the church’s enduring legacy.
Art enthusiasts will delight in the church’s collection of paintings, which include a 16th-century panel depicting the Madonna and Child between Saints Bartholomew and Lawrence. The frescoes in the niches, such as the 15th-century crucifixion scene by Francesco d’Antonio Zacchi, offer glimpses into the rich artistic heritage of Viterbo.
Beneath the presbytery lies a captivating crypt, accessible via two staircases. This oratory houses a baptismal font crafted by the De Alexandris brothers in 1961, combining peperino and travertine. The crypt’s atmospheric setting invites quiet contemplation and reflection.
Outside, the remnants of a small cloister, referred to as Longobard due to its architectural style, add another layer of historical intrigue. Discovered in 1954, the cloister features slender columns and arches, reminiscent of other Lombard structures in Viterbo. Though only two sides remain, the cloister’s serene beauty is undeniable.
Santa Maria Nuova is more than just a historical monument; it is a living testament to Viterbo’s vibrant past. The church continues to play an active role in the community, hosting events and services that draw locals and visitors alike. Its walls echo with the stories of centuries, inviting all who enter to become a part of its ongoing narrative.
In conclusion, Santa Maria Nuova is a gem in the heart of Viterbo, offering a unique blend of history, art, and spirituality. Whether you are a history buff, an art lover, or a curious traveler, this enchanting church promises an unforgettable journey through time.
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