Stepping into the Lord Leycester Hospital in Warwick is like stepping back in time. This remarkable complex, nestled next to the West Gate on High Street, is one of the finest examples of medieval courtyard architecture in England. With a history that spans nearly 900 years, the Lord Leycester Hospital is not only a fascinating historical site but also a living institution supporting ex-servicemen, known as the Brethren. The enchanting timber-framed buildings, cobblestone pathways, and serene gardens make it a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts and casual tourists alike.
The story of the Lord Leycester Hospital begins in 1126 with the construction of the Chapel of St James the Great by Roger de Newburgh, the 2nd Norman Earl of Warwick. Originally built over the West Gate of Warwick, this chapel laid the foundation for the complex that would evolve over the centuries. In the late 14th century, the 12th Earl of Warwick rebuilt the chapel and granted its benefice to the Guild of St George. This guild, along with the Guild of the Holy Trinity and the Guild of the Blessed Virgin Mary, formed the United Guilds of Warwick. The construction of living quarters and public rooms around the chapel created the courtyard that visitors see today.
By the 15th century, the Guildhall was added, primarily used as a private chamber for the guilds to discuss trade, religion, and politics. The Guildhall's central table is believed to be the original one used by the United Guilds of Warwick. However, the dissolution of the guilds by King Henry VIII in 1546 led to a significant change in the site's purpose. The property was transferred to the Burgesses of Warwick, who used it for meetings and teaching, eventually becoming part of Warwick School.
In 1571, the 1st Earl of Leicester acquired the buildings and founded a hospital for aged or injured soldiers and their wives. Under a royal charter from Queen Elizabeth I, the hospital was run by 12 resident Brethren, originally soldiers, under the charge of a Master. The hospital was funded by the income from various estates. Over the centuries, the Lord Leycester Hospital has hosted many notable visitors, including Charles Dickens, Oscar Wilde, King George V, and the Queen Mother.
The Chapel of St. James the Great is a highlight of any visit to the Lord Leycester Hospital. The intricate wood carvings, including the famous Warwick icon of the bear and ragged staff and the two-tailed lion from the Dudley family coat of arms, showcase the exceptional craftsmanship of Warwick men. The fine stained glass in the eastern window, created by the Birmingham firm of Clayton & Bell, adds a touch of elegance to the chapel. Above the south door, a window by William Morris and the hangings around the altar designed by him are gems not to be missed. Every weekday morning, the Master and Brethren gather for prayers in the chapel, continuing a tradition that dates back almost 450 years.
The Great Hall, dating back to the 1300s, has remained largely unchanged in structure and appearance. Once used by the guilds for public functions, the hall continues to serve as a venue for dinners, dances, receptions, concerts, and meetings. The hall's historical ambiance, with its original features and artifacts, provides a unique setting for various events.
The Guildhall is now a display space for a fascinating collection of artifacts, including weaponry from different periods. Visitors can see flintlock muskets sent by the crown to the Brethren during the Chartist Riots, Napoleonic swords thought to have come from the Battle of Waterloo, and a cannonball from the Battle of Edge Hill. These artifacts offer a glimpse into the military history associated with the Lord Leycester Hospital.
The Master's Garden is a tranquil retreat within the hospital grounds. Among its many features is a Grade I listed stone urn, believed to be 2,000 years old and originally part of an Egyptian nilometer. The garden's serene atmosphere and historical elements make it a perfect spot for reflection and relaxation.
The Brethren, ex-servicemen who live within the walls of the medieval buildings, are an integral part of the Lord Leycester Hospital's legacy. Dressed in ceremonial uniforms, they meet daily in the chapel to pray together using the words written by their founder, the 1st Earl of Leicester. The Brethren also act as guides for visitors, sharing the rich history of the hospital and its buildings. The public cafe, aptly named The Brethren's Kitchen, offers a delightful spot to enjoy a meal or a cup of tea while soaking in the historical ambiance.
Today, the Lord Leycester Hospital is run by the Master, a retired officer of the Armed Forces. The hospital continues to support eight ex-servicemen and their wives, providing them with flats in return for their past services. The institution is funded by visitor income, as the original estates have been sold over the years. In 2017, Heidi Meyer became the first woman to hold the office of Master, marking a new chapter in the hospital's long history.
The Lord Leycester Hospital is not just a historical monument; it is a living testament to the enduring spirit of service and community. Its walls echo with stories of the past, offering visitors a unique and immersive experience. Whether you are a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply looking for a peaceful retreat, the Lord Leycester Hospital promises an unforgettable journey through time.
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