Church of St Mary, Watford

In the heart of Watford, Hertfordshire, stands the venerable Church of St Mary, a beacon of history and spirituality that has served its community for over eight centuries. This historic Church of England parish church is not just a place of worship but a testament to the rich tapestry of Watford's past, filled with stories of nobility, architectural evolution, and cultural heritage.

The Ancient Origins of St Mary’s

The origins of St Mary's Church are shrouded in mystery, with no definitive records detailing its early beginnings. However, it is widely believed that the church dates back to at least the 12th century, given the discovery of 12th-century stonework during renovations. The current structure, predominantly from the 15th century, stands on foundations that likely saw the birth of Watford Market, granted by the Lord of the Manor at Cashio, an Abbot of St Albans Abbey, sometime during the reign of King Henry I or II.

As you step into this historic edifice, you are immediately transported back in time. The church's broad clock tower, a hallmark of Hertfordshire architecture, greets you with its crenelated top, a feature added during the 19th-century restorations. The six-bay nave, flanked by north and south aisles with octagonal piers, showcases the architectural ingenuity of the medieval craftsmen. Above the piers runs a clerestory, allowing light to flood into the nave, illuminating the timber roof beams that rest on intricately carved angels.

A Walk Through History

Every corner of St Mary's Church whispers tales of yesteryears. The chancel, the oldest part of the church, dates back to the 13th century, with its chancel arch and double piscina. The south aisle's Heydon Chapel, dedicated to St Katherine, was added in the late 13th century by John Heydon of The Grove Estate. Although it now serves as an organ chamber, the chapel still bears the Heydon family coat of arms, carved into one of its pillars.

The church's interior underwent significant restoration in 1848 and again in 1871 under the guidance of architect John Thomas Christopher. These renovations brought about the removal of exterior plaster, refacing with knapped flint, and the addition of battlements to the tower. The south aisle walls were rebuilt, new roofs constructed, and alterations made to the 15th-century south chapel. Inside, ornate stone fonts, a stone reredos, and stained glass by Heaton, Butler, and Bayne were introduced, adding to the church's aesthetic and spiritual ambiance.

The Essex Chapel – A Noble Resting Place

St Mary's Watford is renowned for its Essex Chapel, also known as the Morison Chapel, which houses the tombs of the Earls of Essex and the Morison and Capel families. Founded in 1595 by Bridget, Dowager Countess of Bedford, and Francis Russell, 2nd Earl of Bedford, the chapel is home to some of the most striking monuments in the church, crafted by the renowned sculptor Nicholas Stone.

Among these is the tomb of Sir Charles Morison (1549–1599), featuring a reclining effigy in white marble, adorned with an Elizabethan ruff and armor. Opposite lies the tomb of his son, Sir Charles Morison, 1st Baronet, and his wife Mary, depicted in semi-reclining poses under a four-poster canopy. These monuments, with their intricate carvings and Latin inscriptions, are described by Pevsner as the chief glory of Watford Church.

The chapel also contains memorials to other notable figures, including George Capell-Coningsby, 5th Earl of Essex, and his descendants. Each monument tells a story of the lives and legacies of Watford's nobility, making the Essex Chapel a must-visit for history enthusiasts.

Modern Refurbishments and Controversies

In the 21st century, St Mary's Church underwent a controversial refurbishment from 2017 to 2019. The scheme involved laying new flooring, installing internal plate glass screens, and replacing George Gilbert Scott's oak pews with modern upholstered chairs. Despite opposition from conservationists and heritage bodies, the refurbishment was completed, revealing 13 hidden burial vaults that were documented and conserved before the installation of underfloor heating and a new stone floor.

The Churchyard – A Historical Haven

Outside, the churchyard of St Mary's is dotted with heritage-listed 18th and 19th-century neoclassical chest tombs, the final resting places of several notable Watford townsfolk. These tombs, with their intricate carvings and historical significance, add to the church's charm and allure.

Today, St Mary's Church stands as a Grade I listed building, a symbol of Watford's enduring heritage and spiritual heart. Whether you are a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or a spiritual seeker, a visit to St Mary's Church promises a journey through time, offering a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Watford's past and present.

So, take a moment to step into this historic sanctuary, explore its ancient chapels, marvel at its architectural splendor, and immerse yourself in the stories that have shaped the town of Watford for centuries. St Mary's Church is not just a place of worship; it is a living museum, a testament to the resilience and faith of its community.