San Francesco, known locally as Chiesa di San Francesco, is a magnificent architectural gem nestled in the heart of Ascoli Piceno, Italy. This historic church, with its grandiose structure and rich history, offers visitors a captivating glimpse into the past and a serene place of worship in the present. Standing proudly on Piazza del Popolo, San Francesco is one of the most significant landmarks in the region, alongside the Palazzo dei Capitani and the historic Caffè Meletti.
The origins of San Francesco date back to the early 13th century, commemorating the visit of Saint Francis of Assisi to Ascoli Piceno in 1215. The church was later dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and consecrated on June 24, 1371, by Bishop Giovanni Acquaviva. The emotional wave generated by Saint Francis's preaching profoundly impacted the local population, inspiring thirty young men to don the Franciscan habit and establish the first Franciscan community in Ascoli Piceno.
Initially, the Franciscans settled at the foot of Colle San Marco, but by 1257, Pope Alexander IV and Saint Bonaventure granted them permission to move within the city walls, ending a fierce debate with the Augustinians and Bishop Teodino. With the proceeds from selling their previous convent, the Franciscans acquired land in what is now Piazza del Popolo and began constructing the church and its adjoining cloisters. The foundation stone was laid in 1258, blessed and sent by Pope Alexander IV, although the actual construction began in 1262 due to various challenges.
The original design, attributed without foundation to Antonio Vipera, featured a single nave with seven apses. However, this plan was abandoned in favor of a three-nave structure separated by ten pillars supporting a trussed ceiling. Despite its incomplete state, the church was consecrated in 1371. The Gothic-style modifications, believed to be the work of multiple artists, were likely led by Fra Bevignate, a member of the Silvestrini religious order.
Construction resumed in 1443 under Matteo Roberti da Como and continued with Antonio di Giovanni from Milan in 1451, adding side chapels and matronea. The hexagonal tower on the left side of the church was built around 1444, while the tower facing Piazza del Popolo was completed in 1461. In 1510, a monument to Pope Julius II was inaugurated above the portal on Piazza del Popolo, created by Bernardino di Pietro da Carona.
Further expansions in 1521, led by Master Giovanni, added two lateral naves, and between 1527 and 1545, the central nave's cross vaults were constructed. The final structural addition was the dome, built between 1547 and 1549 under Domenico di Antonio and Defendente di Antonio. The upper crowning of the main facade on Via del Trivio dates back to the 17th century. Baroque interior decorations were removed between 1852 and 1858 to restore the church's original appearance, although some believe this restoration imparted an excessive austerity to the structure.
San Francesco's exterior is a testament to its historical and architectural significance. The main facade, measuring 26.07 meters in length and 23.46 meters in height, faces Via del Trivio and features a prominent base running along the building's perimeter. Constructed from smooth travertine blocks, the facade is simple yet imposing, crowned with a horizontal cornice. Three Gothic portals with Venetian influences adorn the lower part of the facade.
The central portal is particularly noteworthy for its monumental design and rich decorations, dating back to the second half of the 14th century. The archivolt features a deep splay formed by five columns with varied decorative motifs. The vertical columns are divided into two sections: the upper section with diverse shafts, and the lower section with smooth, worn parts from devotional rubbing. The capitals, fused into a single band, display different floral friezes on either side of the portal.
Flanking the entrance are two stylistically different lions supporting decorated columns that rise into pinnacles adorned with statues of Saint Francis and Saint Anthony. The archivolt's apex features a sculpted lamb, symbolizing Christ and the Wool Workers' Guild of Ascoli, who contributed to the church's construction. Above the archivolt, a gable culminates in a relief of the Blessing Christ. The lunette fresco, dating from the 16th century and restored in the 19th century, depicts Saint John the Baptist, the Madonna, and Saint Francis.
The side portals are simpler, with pinnacles, full-centre archivolts, and column clusters. The artists behind these portals remain unknown, though their decorations resemble those in other Ascoli churches dedicated to Saint James and Saints Vincent and Anastasius. An oculus, restored in 1951, opens above the facade.
The southern side of the church faces Piazza del Popolo, showcasing two of the seven polygonal apses and the dome, flanked by two slender hexagonal bell towers. Sixteen Gothic-style biforate windows with polychrome glass, featuring delicate twisted columns and richly decorated cusps, adorn the spaces between the apses.
A second travertine portal, designed by Cola dell'Amatrice, faces Piazza del Popolo, situated between the Loggia dei Mercanti and the edicola of Lazzaro Morelli. This Gothic portal features a full-centre arch with a raised background, surrounded by three orders of twisted columns with varied designs. The capitals merge into a single band with alternating pendulous leaves. Similar decorative solutions link this portal to other Franciscan churches in the Marche region, dating it to the early 14th century. The lunette fresco, though faint, displays the coat of arms of Pope Paul V.
Above the Gothic portal on Piazza del Popolo, a monument to Pope Julius II, created by Bernardino di Pietro da Carona, stands as a testament to the church's historical significance. Inaugurated in 1510, this monument adds to the grandeur of San Francesco, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and architecture lovers alike.
San Francesco in Ascoli Piceno is more than just a church; it is a living testament to the city's rich history and architectural prowess. Its walls echo the stories of centuries past, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the spiritual and cultural heritage of this enchanting Italian city.
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