Lebuinuskerk

In the heart of Deventer, a city steeped in history and charm, stands the majestic Lebuinuskerk, also known locally as the Grote of Lebuinuskerk. This Gothic hall church, with its towering presence and rich heritage, is a testament to the city's vibrant past and its enduring spirit. As you approach this architectural marvel, you are immediately struck by its grandeur and the stories etched into its ancient stones.

The Origins of Lebuinuskerk

The roots of Lebuinuskerk date back to the 8th century when the English missionary Lebuinus crossed the IJssel River with a mission to convert the Saxons. He built the first wooden church on a river dune near a settlement with a natural harbor. This humble beginning laid the foundation for what would become one of the most significant churches in the region.

In the 9th and 10th centuries, Deventer became a bishop's residence due to Viking invasions along the major rivers. The church's importance grew, and it retained a prominent status within the Utrecht diocese for centuries. Bishop Balderik constructed the first stone church on the site in the 10th century, marking the beginning of a new era for the Lebuinuskerk.

The Romanesque and Gothic Transformations

By 1040, Bishop Bernold commissioned the construction of a large Romanesque basilica. This impressive structure, dedicated to Mary and Lebuinus, featured an independent chapter with its own provostry and twenty canons. However, the basilica faced destruction by fire in 1235 and again in 1334.

The current Gothic hall church, built between 1450 and 1525, emerged from these ashes. Richly adorned with murals, statues of saints, and altars, the church was a beacon of Catholic grandeur. However, the Calvinists took control of the church in 1580, renaming it the Grote Kerk. The interior suffered severe damage, and the once-vibrant decorations were plastered over in white. Despite these changes, remnants of the Calvinist iconoclasm can still be seen within the church.

Murals and Romanesque Remnants

During a restoration in 1927, pre-Reformation murals were rediscovered in the crypt and the Magistrates' Chapel, which was specifically built for city officials. The entire church features plastered cross, star, and net vaults adorned with both profane and religious images, some dating back to the early 14th century. However, much of the interior plastering was removed during the 1927 restoration, except for the sections with murals.

Significant parts of the Romanesque predecessor remain within the current structure, including the preserved Romanesque crypt, which bears a striking resemblance to the crypt of the Pieterskerk in Utrecht, also built by Bishop Bernold.

Restorations and Modern Enhancements

The church underwent a major restoration in the early 20th century under the guidance of Wolter te Riele and P.J.H. Cuypers. The medieval roof was replaced with the current steep roofs, and all extensions, such as houses on the Grote Kerkhof side, were removed. This transformation made the church appear more like a monument on a pedestal, less organically connected to the rest of the inner city. In the early 21st century, both the church and tower underwent significant internal and external restorations. The main entrance under the tower was restored, and the Magistrates' Chapel received a closing glass wall. The carillon was also returned to its original place in the lantern openings of the tower.

The Tower and Carillon

Originally, the church had a complex of towers on the west side, with the central tower flanked by four smaller ones. After four centuries, most of these were demolished in 1454. The foundation stone for the current tower was laid in the summer of 1459. Although foundations for a second tower to the north exist, it was never built.

The upper section of the tower, known as the lantern, was designed in 1613 by the renowned architect Hendrick de Keyser in collaboration with Pieter Adriaensz van Delft. Gualterus Sylvanus, rector of the Latin school from 1603 to 1619, was asked by the city council to provide a text for the four sides of the lantern. The inscription reads: Fide Deo, Vigila, Consule, Fortis Age, which translates to Trust in God, be vigilant, act with deliberation, be strong. The lantern's base features a walkable deck, offering panoramic views of the city.

The tower houses the oldest existing carillon by Pieter and François Hemony. In 2009, the carillon underwent a complete restoration. Of the original 33 Hemony bells, 31 remain, alongside 22 newer ones. Six bells were added to restore the old basis of the meantone tuning, including a 1800 kg heavy bell and five small bells. The large bells hang in a new three-part steel bell frame, while the smaller bells are again in the lantern windows. In total, there are now 53 bells.

The clock was made in 1862 by the Parisian clockmaker Amédée-Philippe Borrel, and the playing drum with accessories was supplied by the Deventer firm Nering Bögel in 1866.

Climbing the Lebuinus Tower

For those with a sense of adventure, the Lebuinus Tower is open to the public for climbing at regular times. The narrow spiral staircase leading to the second gallery at 46 meters high consists of 220 steps. The climb is well worth the effort, rewarding visitors with breathtaking views of Deventer and the surrounding landscape.

In conclusion, the Lebuinuskerk is more than just a historic church; it is a symbol of Deventer's rich history and resilience. Its walls tell tales of missionary zeal, medieval grandeur, Calvinist iconoclasm, and modern restoration. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to the Lebuinuskerk is an unforgettable journey through time.