Old Synagogue

The Old Synagogue, known locally as the Alte Synagoge, stands as a monumental testament to Jewish culture and history in Essen, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany. This architectural marvel, located at Steeler Straße 29 near the Essen Town Hall, is one of the largest and best-preserved synagogues from the pre-war era in Germany. Its rich history, stunning architecture, and cultural significance make it a must-visit destination for anyone interested in exploring the profound heritage of Jewish culture in Europe.

The Origins of the Old Synagogue

At the dawn of the 20th century, the Jewish community in Essen was rapidly growing, outgrowing the smaller synagogue on Gerswidastraße. To accommodate this burgeoning community, plans for a new, grand synagogue were set in motion. The first rabbi of the community, Salomon Samuel, played a pivotal role in this endeavor, commissioning the renowned architect Edmund Körner to design the new synagogue. Körner's vision was to create a building that not only served as a place of worship but also symbolized the integration and recognition of Jews in German society.

Construction began in 1911, and after two years of meticulous work, the synagogue was completed and inaugurated on September 25, 1913. The opening was marked by a grand ceremony, with Rabbi Emil Cohn writing a special play titled Salomo for the occasion. The synagogue quickly became the cultural and social hub for a community that numbered around 4,500 members by 1933. It featured a main hall that could accommodate over 1,500 people, multiple galleries, an organ, and a large bimah area that was often used for concerts. Additionally, the complex included a weekday synagogue, classrooms, a community hall, a library, and residential quarters for the rabbi and cantor.

The Turbulent Years: National Socialism and World War II

The rise of the National Socialist regime in Germany brought dark days for the Jewish community. During the Kristallnacht pogroms on the night of November 9-10, 1938, the interior of the Old Synagogue was heavily damaged by arson. However, the building's exterior remained largely intact due to its robust steel-reinforced concrete construction. The Nazis' plans to demolish the synagogue were thwarted by the building's massive structure and the potential danger to surrounding properties.

Remarkably, the synagogue survived World War II without significant additional damage. However, it stood unused and in disrepair for many years. It wasn't until 1959 that the new post-war Jewish community, which had been using the former rabbi's house as its center, decided to build a new synagogue elsewhere. The city of Essen acquired the old synagogue building and repurposed it as a museum for industrial design, known as the House of Industrial Form, in 1960/61. This transformation involved removing all remaining elements of its original synagogue furnishings, creating a starkly utilitarian interior that reflected the era's design sensibilities.

The Renaissance of the Old Synagogue

In 1979, a fire caused by a short circuit damaged the industrial design exhibition, prompting the city of Essen to reconsider the building's purpose. This led to the establishment of the Old Synagogue as a house of Jewish culture in 1980. The internationally acclaimed Israeli artist Naftali Bezem, whose father was the last sexton of the synagogue before its destruction, played a significant role in this transformation. Bezem donated a ten-color screen print to help fund a facsimile reprint of a 1914 book about the synagogue, and in 1992, the Folkwang Museum dedicated a comprehensive exhibition to his work in the Old Synagogue.

From 1986 to 1988, the interior of the synagogue underwent partial reconstruction with funding from the state of North Rhine-Westphalia. The building became a vibrant center for Jewish culture and history, offering a variety of programs, exhibitions, and events. These included guided tours, educational workshops, Torah study sessions, and cultural performances, making the Old Synagogue a place of learning and intercultural dialogue.

Architectural Grandeur

The Old Synagogue in Essen is the largest free-standing synagogue building north of the Alps, surpassing even the New Synagogue in Berlin in terms of volume. Its imposing dome rises to a height of 37 meters, and the entire structure spans 70 meters in length. The design of the synagogue masterfully blends traditional Jewish and oriental elements with Western and Christian architectural influences, particularly evident in the late Art Nouveau style of the main hall.

The three grand entrance doors are adorned with eighteen medallions depicting Jewish motifs, while the six large windows illustrate various Jewish holidays, including the Sabbath, Passover, Shavuot, Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur, and Sukkot. These artistic elements, combined with the building's overall design, create a space that is both spiritually uplifting and architecturally significant.

Preservation and Future Plans

In 2015, a thorough assessment of the building's condition revealed significant restoration needs, particularly for the copper roof and limestone façade. Restoration work began in late 2022, focusing on replacing the nearly 120-year-old underground pipes and waterproofing the basement. The limestone façade is being carefully cleaned, and the copper roof is being replaced and fitted with lightning protection. Additionally, the rainwater drainage system is being updated to protect the façade from water damage. The restoration is expected to be completed by the end of 2024, with an estimated cost of around 7 million euros.

The Old Synagogue Today

Today, the Old Synagogue stands as a beacon of Jewish culture and history in Essen. Following extensive renovations, it was officially reopened on July 13, 2010, as the Old Synagogue – House of Jewish Culture. The surrounding area was redesigned as Edmund-Körner-Platz, creating a harmonious ensemble with the nearby Old Catholic Peace Church. The site now offers five distinct exhibition areas, providing visitors with a comprehensive understanding of Jewish life, culture, and history.

The Old Synagogue is not just a historical monument; it is a living institution that fosters intercultural dialogue and understanding. It hosts a wide range of cultural events, including concerts, theater performances, lectures, and readings, making it a vibrant center for both the Jewish community and the broader public. Whether you are a history enthusiast, a cultural explorer, or simply a curious visitor, the Old Synagogue in Essen offers a unique and enriching experience that connects the past with the present.