In the heart of the enchanting Tuscan city of Lucca, Italy, lies one of the most revered and mysterious religious artifacts in all of Europe: the Holy Face of Lucca, known locally as the Volto Santo di Lucca. This ancient wooden crucifix is not just a remarkable piece of religious art but a symbol that has drawn pilgrims and curious visitors alike for centuries. Enshrined within the Cathedral of San Martino, the Holy Face of Lucca is steeped in legend, history, and a sense of divine mystery that continues to captivate those who behold it.
The story of the Holy Face of Lucca is wrapped in the fabric of medieval legend. According to the Leggenda Leboiniana, a 12th-century account written by a deacon named Leboinio, the crucifix was carved by Nicodemus, a member of the Sanhedrin and a disciple of Jesus. Nicodemus, struggling to capture the true likeness of Christ's face, miraculously found the face already sculpted when he awoke one morning, thus attributing the image to divine intervention. This acheropita, or not made by human hands, attribute has only added to the crucifix's mystique.
The legend continues with the tale of the crucifix's journey to Lucca. To protect it from destruction, the statue was placed on an unmanned ship in Jaffa, Israel. The vessel, guided by divine winds, eventually arrived in Luni, Italy. Despite attempts by the locals to claim the relic, it was only after the intervention of the Bishop of Lucca, who had been divinely informed of the statue's presence, that the crucifix found its way to Lucca. It was then placed on a cart pulled by oxen, who, under God's guidance, led it to its final resting place in Lucca.
The Holy Face of Lucca has been a focal point of veneration since its arrival in the city. Initially placed in the Church of San Frediano, the crucifix mysteriously moved to a garden near the current site of the Cathedral of San Martino, prompting the construction of the cathedral to house this sacred artifact. This miraculous event is commemorated annually on September 13th with the Luminara di Santa Croce, a spectacular procession through the city illuminated by thousands of candles. The event draws participants from all over, including local parishes, political and religious leaders, musical bands, and costumed figures representing medieval times.
The Holy Face of Lucca is not only a religious icon but also a masterpiece of medieval art. The statue, measuring 265 by 224 cm, was carved from wood in the 8th century and later painted. Over time, it has been covered with a layer of soot, adding to its ancient and mysterious appearance. The figure of Christ is depicted in an unusual manner, dressed in a long tunic known as a colobium, which is more reminiscent of early Christian art from the Eastern Mediterranean than Western Europe.
For years, scholars debated the origins of the crucifix, with some suggesting an Eastern origin due to its unique iconography. However, recent carbon-14 dating has confirmed that the statue dates back to the late 8th or early 9th century, aligning with the legend's timeline. This revelation has only deepened the intrigue surrounding the Holy Face, making it the oldest surviving large-scale wooden sculpture of Christ in Europe.
Visitors to Lucca's Cathedral of San Martino will find the Holy Face enshrined in a beautiful, centrally planned chapel designed by Matteo Civitali in 1484. The chapel itself is a work of art, providing a fitting setting for such a revered relic. As you explore the cathedral, take time to admire the intricate carvings and the serene atmosphere that pervades this sacred space.
Another highlight of the cathedral is the tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, a stunning marble sculpture by Jacopo della Quercia, which adds to the cathedral's rich artistic heritage. The juxtaposition of the Holy Face's ancient wooden form with the marble elegance of Ilaria's tomb creates a fascinating contrast, showcasing the diverse artistic traditions that have flourished in Lucca over the centuries.
The Holy Face of Lucca has left an indelible mark on the city's cultural and religious landscape. Its influence extends beyond the cathedral walls, with the Via del Volto Santo, a section of the ancient pilgrimage route known as the Via Francigena, named in its honor. Pilgrims from across Europe have traveled this route for centuries, drawn by the promise of beholding the miraculous crucifix.
In the 19th century, the Holy Face gained renewed attention through the writings of Sister Marie de Saint-Pierre of the Carmelite Order and the works of Leon Dupont, known as the Holy Man of Tours. Their devotion helped to spread the veneration of the Holy Face beyond Italy, inspiring the establishment of confraternities dedicated to its adoration.
Today, the Holy Face of Lucca continues to be a symbol of faith, artistry, and mystery. Its presence in the Cathedral of San Martino offers a tangible connection to the past, inviting visitors to reflect on the enduring power of religious devotion and the rich tapestry of history that has shaped this remarkable city. Whether you are a pilgrim seeking spiritual solace or a traveler captivated by history and art, the Holy Face of Lucca is a must-see destination that promises to leave a lasting impression on all who encounter it.
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