Musée d'art et d'archéologie du Périgord

In the heart of Périgueux, a quaint town in the Dordogne region of France, lies a treasure trove of history and art. The Musée d'art et d'archéologie du Périgord, often abbreviated as MAAP, is the oldest museum in the department and a must-visit for any culture enthusiast. This museum, founded in 1835, offers a fascinating journey through time, showcasing a rich collection of archaeological finds, fine arts, and ethnographic artifacts from non-European cultures, particularly Africa and Oceania.

A Journey Through History

The roots of the Musée d'art et d'archéologie du Périgord date back to 1804 when the Comte Wlgrin de Taillefer established the first museum in the Jesuit chapel. As the collection grew, it was relocated in 1808 to the vomitory of the Périgueux arena, earning the name Musée vésunien. Following the Comte's death in 1833, his antiquities were bequeathed with the intention of creating a dedicated museum near the Tour de Vésone, or in Paris if that proved impossible.

In 1835, the collection, now known as Musée d'antiques et d'objets d'art, found a new home in the buildings of the Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs, south of the Cloître de la Cathédrale Saint-Front. The museum was renamed Musée archéologique du département de Dordogne in 1836 and became a departmental institution. Over the years, the museum was directed by notable figures such as Joseph de Mourcin, Abbé Audierne, and Dr. Édouard Galy, who played significant roles in its development.

By 1866, the museum had moved to its current location, the former Augustinian convent, which had served as a prison since 1808. The archaeological collections were gradually transferred between 1869 and 1874. In 1891, the city of Périgueux decided to purchase the convent and its surrounding buildings following a substantial bequest of over 150 paintings from the Marquis de Saint-Astier.

Architect Charles Planckaert designed the current museum building, constructed between 1895 and 1898. The museum was officially inaugurated on July 14, 1903, under the direction of Gérard de Fayolle, who, along with Maurice Féaux, meticulously organized the collections.

Exploring the East Wing

Begin your visit in the east wing, where the museum pays homage to its founders and benefactors. Here, you will encounter significant medieval art pieces, such as the Rabastens diptych from 1280, the Vierge de Notre-Dame-de-Sanilhac, a 13th-century Limoges enamel, and the 14th-century stained glass window of Saint Silain.

The first floor houses non-European collections, the seventh largest in France, and prehistoric artifacts, ranking fourth nationally. The African collections feature cultures like Kota, Bembe, Anyi, Bambara, N'guere, and Nagô-Yoruba, while the Oceania section showcases items from New Caledonia, Papua New Guinea, the Gilbert Islands, the Solomon Islands, and the Marquesas Islands. Each artifact is imbued with cultural significance, serving as a bridge between the visible and invisible worlds.

On the upper floor, the Prehistory section, which has long been a highlight of the museum, displays an extensive array of flint tools, illustrating the industries of early humans in the Périgord region over 400,000 years. Notable exhibits include the fossilized skeletons from Regourdou (Neanderthal, 95,000 years old) and Chancelade (Homo sapiens, approximately 12,000 years old), painted or engraved blocks from the Abri Blanchard (35,000 years old), and the reindeer engraving from Limeuil. The museum also boasts a significant collection of Magdalenian bone engravings, including the Cro-Magnon engraved rib and the bison pendant from Raymonden.

The Cloister Garden

The cloister garden, designed by the 19th-century architect at the city's request, connects the east and west wings. This serene space is dedicated to the display and study of lapidary collections from the Gallo-Roman, medieval, and Renaissance periods. It features remnants of buildings from Périgueux and the Dordogne, including sculptures from the original Romanesque Basilica of Saint-Front, retables, decorative elements from private mansions, and funerary furniture such as Merovingian and Carolingian sarcophagi and gravestones from the 13th and 14th centuries. The museography evokes a romantic vision of ruins, inspired by 18th and 19th-century discoveries.

The West Wing: Fine Arts

The west wing, renovated in 2002, houses the fine arts collection established in 1857. This section, enriched by regional donations and acquisitions, as well as state deposits from the Louvre and contemporary works from Paris Salons, was significantly expanded by the Marquis de Saint-Astier's bequest in 1891. The collection is presented in a colorful, chronological layout, with each room's wall color reflecting the dominant hues of the respective period.

For example, the 16th and 17th-century room is painted blue, echoing the prevalent use of this color in artworks from that era. The 18th-century room features a luminous yellow reminiscent of classical and baroque interior architecture's golden tones. The 19th-century room is adorned in Empire green, while the 19th-20th-century rooms transition to a light gray or bluish-gray, aligning with modern museography trends. Each room contextualizes the art by displaying paintings, sculptures, furniture, and decorative objects from Périgord, France, Europe, and Asia.

The Musée d'art et d'archéologie du Périgord is not just a museum; it's a journey through time and cultures. Its diverse collections and rich history make it an essential destination for anyone visiting Périgueux. Whether you're an art aficionado, a history buff, or simply curious, the MAAP offers a captivating and educational experience that will leave you with a deeper appreciation for the region's heritage and the broader human story.