In the heart of Périgueux, nestled in the picturesque region of Dordogne, lies a hidden gem of ancient history and modern architecture: the Musée Vesunna. This unique archaeological museum is not just a repository of artifacts but an immersive journey into the lives of the Gallo-Roman inhabitants of the ancient city of Vesunna. With its innovative design by renowned architect Jean Nouvel, the museum seamlessly blends the past and present, offering visitors an unparalleled glimpse into antiquity.
The story of the Musée Vesunna begins in 1959 when archaeologists unearthed the remains of a domus, or a grand urban residence, near the iconic Tour de Vésone. This discovery revealed walls adorned with painted plaster, preserved to a height of one meter. Subsequent excavations from 1960 to 1968, led by Claude Barrière and Max Sarradet, uncovered the layout of the domus. This opulent home, built in the 1st century AD and later filled in during the mid-2nd century, featured a kitchen, dining room (triclinium), private baths (balnearium), and a garden with a central pool. These remains were classified as historical monuments in 1963.
Further excavations from 1973 to 1977, directed by Anne and Jean-Luc Tobie and Marc Gauthier, focused on the northern and southern parts of the site. These digs uncovered a peristyle with a pool and a large reception hall, along with several wells, one of which contained a wooden pump. The final phase of excavations from 1992 to 1995, led by Claudine Girardy Caillat, prepared the site for the museum's construction, which began under the direction of Luc Wozny from 1999 to 2000.
The need to preserve this significant archaeological site led to the idea of constructing a museum. The project gained momentum in 1992 when the Périgueux city council, inspired by Xavier Darcos, deputy mayor for culture and a specialist in Roman history, decided to build the museum. A competition held in 1993 selected Jean Nouvel's design, which aimed to protect and reveal the site while maintaining its historical integrity.
Nouvel's design features a protective roof supported by 14 nine-meter-high pillars, minimizing their impact on the ground. The roof is anchored by a 90-meter-long concrete wall on the west side, serving as a buttress. The museum's layout guides visitors through time, starting from a patio centered around a centuries-old holm oak. The journey begins on the upper floor with a model of the ancient city of Vesunna, illustrating its urban plan in the 2nd century AD. Two mezzanines highlight the domus, focusing on the themes of public life and daily activities in the ancient city.
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ToursThe Musée Vesunna's permanent exhibition showcases discoveries from the territory of the Pétrocores, the Gaulish tribe that inhabited the area. Limestone blocks from the 4th-century rampart are displayed along the thick wall. The collection is divided into two sections: public life in the city and daily life in the domus.
The first mezzanine features public buildings' decorations and inscriptions, including the forum's mosaic, models of the temple and amphitheater, the aqueduct, and remnants of columns. The second mezzanine focuses on funerary practices, displaying steles from the 4th-century rampart, religious statuary, and commercial artifacts. Visitors then descend to the domus, where a 1/50th scale model recreates the residence as it appeared in the late 2nd century AD.
The domus exhibition is organized thematically, allowing visitors to explore various aspects of daily life, such as water supply, religion, heating, food, games, and personal care. Highlights include a beautifully preserved fresco depicting marine fauna on a burgundy background, dating from the mid-2nd century AD.
The Musée Vesunna is not just about ancient history; it also embraces contemporary relevance. In 2013, the museum celebrated its tenth anniversary with free events, including a concert, a giant picnic in the Vésone park, a film screening, and a reenactment of a Roman camp. The museum has also been recognized for its accessibility, earning the Tourism and Disability label in 2013 and the Remarkable Contemporary Architecture label in 2020.
Visitors to the Musée Vesunna can marvel at the seamless integration of ancient ruins and modern architecture. The museum's glass walls offer unobstructed views of the site, creating the illusion of a window into the past. The surrounding Vésone garden enhances the experience, providing a tranquil setting that contrasts with the bustling modern world outside.
In conclusion, the Musée Vesunna is a captivating destination for history enthusiasts and casual visitors alike. Its innovative design, rich collections, and immersive exhibits offer a unique opportunity to step back in time and explore the lives of the Gallo-Roman inhabitants of Vesunna. Whether you're fascinated by ancient architecture, intrigued by archaeological discoveries, or simply looking for a unique cultural experience, the Musée Vesunna promises an unforgettable journey through history.
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