Basilica di San Prospero

In the heart of Reggio Emilia, nestled within the bustling Piazza San Prospero, stands the magnificent Basilica di San Prospero. This Renaissance gem, often mistaken for a Baroque masterpiece, is a testament to the rich cultural and spiritual heritage of the region. Dedicated to the city’s patron saint, San Prospero, the basilica is not just a place of worship but a symbol of Reggio Emilia’s enduring legacy.

The History of Basilica di San Prospero

The origins of the basilica are steeped in local legend and devotion. San Prospero, who lived in the 5th century and served as the bishop of Reggio Emilia, is credited with saving the city from the marauding Huns led by Attila. According to the legend, a miraculous fog, invoked by San Prospero, enveloped the city, rendering it invisible to the invaders. This miracle solidified his status as the city’s protector.

The first church dedicated to San Prospero was built outside the city walls in 703. However, it was during the episcopate of Bishop Teuzone (before 980 - after 1029) that the current location was chosen, adjacent to the ancient Roman castrum. The church was consecrated in 997 by Pope Gregory V. The structure we see today began to take shape in the 16th century after the original building fell into disrepair and was demolished in 1514.

Reconstruction efforts, led by architects Luca Corti and Matteo Fiorentino, faced numerous challenges, including the collapse of the chapel's foundations in 1523. Nevertheless, by 1527, the basilica was nearly complete, and in 1543, the minor chapels were finished, leading to its reconsecration. The façade, however, remained incomplete until the mid-18th century when Giovan Battista Cattani finally completed it between 1748 and 1753.

Exploring the Exterior

The basilica’s façade is an exquisite example of 18th-century architecture, adorned with eleven statues of saints and doctors of the Church. At the edge of the churchyard, six distinctive red Verona marble lions stand guard. These sculptures, dating back to 1503 and attributed to the Reggio sculptor Gaspare Bigi, were originally intended to support columns for three porticoes in front of the basilica's entrances. Although never completed, these lions have become iconic, often seen with children playfully perched atop them.

To the right of the façade stands the incomplete octagonal bell tower, a project initiated by Cristoforo Ricci and later revised by Giulio Romano. This tower, although unfinished, adds a unique charm to the basilica’s silhouette.

The Splendor Within

Stepping inside, visitors are greeted by the basilica’s solemn yet grandiose interior, laid out in a Latin cross formation with three naves. The central nave is decorated in a neoclassical style, adding to the basilica’s serene elegance. Among the notable artworks is the beautiful wooden pulpit with intricate inlays depicting saints, crafted by Paolo and Prospero Sampolo in 1571.

The right nave houses several significant artworks, including Michelangelo Anselmi’s Baptism of Christ at the third altar and Nicolò Patarazzi’s Charity of Saint Homobonus at the fourth altar. The Pratonieri Chapel, at the fifth altar, features a copy of Correggio’s The Night, a depiction of the Nativity of Jesus, by Jean Boulanger. The original, sold to the Elector of Saxony in 1745, now resides in Dresden’s Gemäldegalerie. Alessandro Tiarini’s Holy Family adorns the sixth altar.

The right transept is equally rich in art, with a high wall featuring a copy of Annibale Carracci’s Madonna and Saint Matthew by Jean Boulanger, and below it, the tomb of Lodovico Parisetti by Prospero Sogari (1555). The altar in this transept showcases a Michelangelesque marble Madonna with Child, possibly by Sogari himself. The first chapel to the right of the presbytery contains three statues of saints attributed to Nicola Sampolo.

The Presbytery and Its Treasures

The presbytery is the heart of the basilica, with an altar containing the relics of San Prospero. The ceiling and apse are adorned with a stunning fresco cycle by Camillo Procaccini, dating to the late 16th century. Highlights include depictions of Saints Prospero and Venerio among angelic choirs, the Creation of Eve, and scenes from the Apocalypse. The apse features a dramatic Last Judgment and Deposition, showcasing Procaccini’s Michelangelesque inspiration. Below, a wooden choir from 1545, carved and inlaid by Cristoforo da Venezia and his son Giuseppe, adds to the presbytery’s grandeur.

The dome’s tempera decoration, depicting San Prospero in glory among angels, was added in the late 19th century by Giulio Ferrari and his assistants. The left transept features another masterpiece by Prospero Sogari, Christ Bearing the Cross, above the baptismal font, and Bartolomeo Spani’s refined tomb of Ruffino Gabbioneta, commissioned in 1520.

Artistic Wonders in the Left Nave

The left nave is home to more artistic treasures, including Bernardino Zacchetti’s Saint Paul at the sixth altar, with an intriguing predella depicting the saint’s fall. The fifth altar features a Madonna with Child and Saint Apollonia, tentatively attributed to Denis Calvaert. Orazio Talami’s Chair of Saint Peter graces the third altar, while the second altar showcases Francesco Stringa’s Madonna and Saints, with Pietro Desani’s ceiling frescoes illustrating the stories of Saints Crispin and Crispinian.

The Basilica’s Hidden Treasures

The basilica also boasts an impressive treasury, housed in a chapel frescoed by Marcantonio Franceschini in 1701, with assistance from Luigi Quaini. Among the treasures are Nicola Sampolo’s silver bust of San Prospero (1623) and Gianandrea Spani’s processional cross from 1540. The sacristy, typically not open to the public, contains additional paintings, including works by Tommaso Laureti and Ludovico Carracci.

In conclusion, the Basilica di San Prospero is a captivating blend of history, art, and spirituality. Its walls and altars echo the devotion of centuries, making it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the rich cultural tapestry of Reggio Emilia.