Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo (Reggio Emilia)

The Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo, nestled in the heart of Reggio Emilia, is a stunning example of Gothic architecture from the second half of the 13th century. This historically significant building, located on the bustling Piazza del Monte, offers a fascinating glimpse into the rich cultural and political history of the region.

The History of Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo

The origins of the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo trace back to a tumultuous period following the death of Countess Matilda of Canossa in 1115. The free commune of Reggio was established, and with it came the new magistrate position of Capitano del Popolo, a role integral to the governance and protection of the city. This building, named after the Capitano, became a center of culture and hospitality.

In 1280, the city acquired two houses adjacent to the Palazzo del Monte, the residence of the Podestà. These houses were demolished to make way for the new residence of the Capitano del Popolo. The two buildings were connected by bridges, forming a single complex suitable for defense purposes. The Capitano del Popolo's duties included overseeing the city's safety, managing diplomatic relations, administering justice, commanding the militia, and appointing wise men to draft the Statuti del Popolo (People's Statutes). However, the office was abolished in 1326 when the city fell under the rule of the Gonzaga family.

Over the centuries, the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo served various roles. It housed the ducal farmer for a long time and briefly functioned as the local mint in the early 16th century. In 1461, the palace was partially restored to accommodate Duchess Bianca Maria Visconti, wife of Francesco I Sforza. Further restorations were carried out between 1461 and 1473 when the palace became the residence of Marquis Sigismondo I d'Este, the city's lieutenant. However, the building fell into disuse in the following years, and markets for fodder, grain, and fish developed under the arcade facing the square.

Restorations and Transformations

The deteriorating condition of the palace concerned the city, but limited financial resources prevented direct intervention. Consequently, the building was leased to the Balburelli brothers for six gold ducats per year, with the condition that they undertake the necessary repairs. The Balburellis transformed the palace into a large inn named Osteria del Cappello Rosso (Red Hat Inn), distinguished by an iron hat sign painted red.

In 1915, the connection with the Palazzo del Monte, known as the Portico delle Biade (Fodder Arcade), was demolished. That same year, Guido Tirelli was commissioned to restore the south façade facing the Cathedral Square in the Neo-Renaissance style, as well as parts of the west façade, which had already been restored in a neoclassical style by Pietro Marchelli in 1829.

Over the years, the palace underwent numerous partial interventions. Plaster and paintwork covered traces of the original construction. In 1928, the then-owner, Eugenio Terracchini, supported by his son Paolo, decided to undertake a complete restoration of the building. Architect Guido Tirelli's project included completing the north façade and half of the west façade in the Neo-Renaissance style, along with the construction of an eclectic Pharaonic tower, which would become the tallest structure in the historic city center. The discovery of medieval features during the restoration promised to enrich the city's history significantly.

However, a conflict arose between the Soprintendenza, represented by Luigi Corsini and Otello Siliprandi, and the Podestà Giuseppe Menada regarding the continuation of Tirelli's eclectic project. The work was halted until an article by Education Minister Giuseppe Belluzzo, prompted by Benito Mussolini, appeared in the local newspaper Il Solco Fascista in September 1928, advocating for the continuation of the project. The restoration was completed in 1931, and the palace was permanently integrated into the city's memory.

The Interior of the Palazzo

Inside the palace, visitors can admire a Madonna with Child painted in dark clothing and a white veil with gilding, dating back to the early 15th century. The walls of the entrance display fragments of the Capitani del Popolo's coats of arms, partially overlapping as each new Capitano's coat of arms was painted anew (a total of 96 Capitani). In the hall before the salon, there is a valuable 14th-century fresco from the Emilia school depicting Saint Jerome.

The palace's exterior is adorned with interesting coats of arms of the early Capitani del Popolo and the seal of the Società del Popolo e delle Arti di Reggio, marking the starting point of its history. A particularly charming and beautiful double window with fine decorations graces the façade facing Via Emilia.

The Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo is a testament to Reggio Emilia's rich history and architectural heritage. Its walls tell stories of political intrigue, cultural evolution, and artistic achievements, making it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring this charming Italian city.