Nestled in the heart of Rieti, a charming town in the Lazio region of Italy, Piazza San Rufo is a delightful blend of history, culture, and architectural beauty. This quaint square, often whispered about in tales of Italy's geographic center, offers visitors a unique glimpse into the medieval urban fabric of this enchanting city. With its narrow alleys and serene atmosphere, Piazza San Rufo is a treasure waiting to be discovered.
Piazza San Rufo is not just any square; it is steeped in history and local lore. According to ancient tradition, this piazza is considered the Umbilicus Italiae, or the Navel of Italy, a symbolic center of the country. This notion dates back to Roman times when scholars like Marcus Terentius Varro and writers such as Pliny the Elder and Virgil referenced the area around Rieti as the heart of the Italian peninsula.
The idea of Rieti as the center of Italy persisted through the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance, with the belief that the city was equidistant from the Adriatic and Tyrrhenian seas. Over time, the focus shifted to Piazza San Rufo itself, where a granite column once stood to mark this symbolic center. Although the original column is no longer there, a monument now stands in its place, continuing to celebrate this fascinating piece of local heritage.
As you wander into Piazza San Rufo, you'll be greeted by the charming Chiesa di San Rufo. This small church, with its neoclassical facade designed by Melchiorre Passalacqua in 1748, is a testament to the blend of architectural styles that characterize the region. Inside, the church boasts a baroque interior and houses notable artworks, including The Guardian Angel by Giovanni Antonio Galli, an exquisite piece once attributed to Caravaggio.
On the western side of the square, you'll find a portion of Palazzo Capelletti, a 17th-century building that adds to the historical ambiance of the piazza. To the north, the square is bordered by a wall encircling the courtyard of Palazzo Vincenti Mareri, designed by the renowned architect Giuseppe Valadier in the 18th and 19th centuries.
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At the heart of Piazza San Rufo stands a modern monument, a gift from the Georgian city of Tbilisi, crafted by architects G. Beridze and A. Meskhi. This travertine structure, resembling the base of a column, features the inscription Umbilicus Italiae and is adorned with a colorful marble decoration of Italy. Despite its controversial reception and the nickname caciotta due to its cheese-like shape, the monument remains a central feature of the piazza.
From Piazza San Rufo, a network of narrow streets invites exploration. To the north lies Via Cerroni, connecting the piazza to Via Garibaldi, the ancient decumanus of the city. To the west, a small archway under Palazzo Capelletti leads to Via Capelletti and then to Via Roma, the city's historic cardo. To the east, Via San Rufo offers another path to discover Rieti's rich history.
As you meander through these ancient streets, keep an eye out for Casa Zapparelli at 19 Via San Rufo, a building that features a distinctive medieval cross-window, a hallmark of the city's Guelf heritage. Additionally, beneath a glass panel in the square's pavement, remnants of Roman walls can be seen, a testament to the city's enduring historical significance.
Despite its central location, Piazza San Rufo retains a tranquil and secluded atmosphere, largely due to its inaccessibility to vehicular traffic. This peaceful setting makes it an ideal spot to pause and reflect on the rich tapestry of history that surrounds you. Whether you're enjoying a leisurely stroll or savoring a moment on one of the benches, the piazza offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life.
In conclusion, Piazza San Rufo in Rieti is more than just a square; it is a journey through time and tradition. From its storied past as the symbolic center of Italy to its charming architectural features, the piazza captures the essence of Rieti's historical and cultural heritage. A visit to this enchanting spot is a must for anyone seeking to uncover the hidden gems of Italy's heartland.
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