San Francesco, Rieti

San Francesco, also known locally as Chiesa di San Francesco, is one of the most significant religious edifices in Rieti, Italy. This magnificent church is not just an architectural marvel but also a place steeped in history and spiritual importance. Its origins are intricately linked with the life of St. Francis of Assisi, making it a revered site for pilgrims and a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts.

The History of San Francesco

The origins of San Francesco date back to the early 13th century, during one of St. Francis of Assisi's visits to the Rieti Valley. St. Francis, known for his profound impact on Christianity and his dedication to a life of poverty and humility, had a strong connection to this region. It was here that he performed significant acts such as the first live Nativity scene in Greccio and the writing of the Canticle of the Creatures and the definitive Rule of his order.

In 1210, St. Francis established a small oratory next to the pre-existing hospital of Santa Croce, intended for the care of the sick. This humble beginning marked the foundation of what would eventually become the church of San Francesco. As the number of his followers grew, so did the need for a larger place of worship. Following St. Francis's canonization, the Franciscan community in Rieti received authorization from Pope Innocent IV in 1245 to build a church dedicated to their founder. Construction began that same year, and by 1253, the church was completed, making it the second church in the world dedicated to St. Francis, after the Basilica of St. Francis in Assisi.

Architectural Evolution

The convent associated with the church quickly grew in importance, becoming a central hub for the Franciscan community in the region. In 1260, St. Bonaventure elevated it to the head of the Custody of Rieti, overseeing fifteen convents. The convent's significance was further underscored in 1262 when Pope Urban IV denied a request from the citizens of Rieti to build a bridge near the convent, highlighting its importance.

Over the centuries, the church and convent underwent numerous changes and expansions. In 1463, the Company of St. Bernardino was established at the church, leading to the construction of the Oratory of St. Bernardino. The oratory was later expanded and adorned with stuccoes and frescoes by Tobia Cicchini and canvases by Ascanio Manenti.

The 17th century saw the convent becoming one of Italy's most important seminaries. However, the church faced challenges due to its proximity to the Velino River, which frequently flooded the area. To mitigate the damage, the church floor was raised by about two meters in 1636.

Modern Era Transformations

The convent faced closure during the Napoleonic era and was definitively suppressed in 1866, with the building being ceded to the Municipality of Rieti in 1873. The church, however, remained with the Franciscans. Following the unification of Italy, the convent was repurposed as a provincial asylum. In the 1920s, as part of the celebrations for the seventh centenary of St. Francis's death, the church underwent significant restoration and embellishment. The facade was stripped of its plaster to reveal the original stonework, and a new rose window, designed by architect Angiolo Mazzoni, was installed.

In the late 1930s, with the construction of a new psychiatric hospital, the convent was left vacant. It was later converted into a school building, and today it houses the Carlo Jucci Scientific High School. The church is now owned by the Fondo Edifici di Culto of the Ministry of the Interior. In 2019, the building was declared unsafe due to roof damage, and access was restricted.

Exploring the Church Complex

The San Francesco complex comprises several buildings, including the church, the Oratory of St. Bernardino, the former convent, and a bell tower. The church itself features a Romanesque-Gothic exterior made of stone, with later-added Baroque chapels.

The facade of the church, facing Piazza San Francesco, is simple yet elegant. The main entrance is a travertine portal, elevated by seven steps and framed by slender columns that connect with the arches of the lunette above. This lunette features a fresco depicting the Madonna and Child with St. Francis and St. Anthony, painted by Vincenzo Manenti in 1640. Above the portal is a rose window, designed by Angiolo Mazzoni in 1926, and two bas-reliefs depicting a lamb and a sun.

The interior of the church is designed in a Latin cross layout with a single nave and two transepts. The left side of the church houses three large chapels, while the right side features several altars. The square-shaped apse is dominated by a large Gothic quadrifora. The original Baroque vault collapsed after an earthquake in 1898, and today, a truss structure is visible in its place.

Notable Chapels

The first chapel on the left is dedicated to St. Anthony of Padua. It features a masonry altar with gilded stuccoes and painted wood, created in 1640 by French cabinetmaker Carlo Bodot and partially restored by Giovanni Battista Comparetti after the 1703 earthquake. The chapel's walls are adorned with stuccoes and trompe-l'œil paintings, and it is topped with a dome. The statue of St. Anthony, which is carried in the traditional Procession of the Candles in June, is kept here behind blue velvet curtains bearing the initials S. A.

The second chapel on the left is dedicated to the Immaculate Conception, adding to the rich tapestry of religious and artistic heritage within the church.

San Francesco in Rieti is not just a church; it is a testament to centuries of faith, resilience, and artistic expression. Its walls echo the stories of St. Francis and the countless individuals who have walked its halls, making it an unmissable destination for anyone visiting this historic city.