The Chiesa dei Santi Felice e Baccolo in Sorrento, also known locally as the Chiesa del Rosario, is a captivating blend of history and architecture nestled in the heart of this charming Italian town. With its origins shrouded in mystery, this church stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of Sorrento's past, offering visitors a glimpse into a time when spirituality and community were deeply intertwined.
The origins of the Chiesa dei Santi Felice e Baccolo are somewhat enigmatic, with some accounts suggesting its construction as early as 310 AD under the reign of Constantine I. Others propose a later date, attributing its foundation to Duke Sergio of Sorrento around the 12th century. Regardless of its exact beginnings, it is widely accepted that the church was built atop an ancient Roman temple, possibly dedicated to Jupiter or a pantheon of deities.
Originally dedicated to Saint Felix, Bishop of Nola, and later to Saint Baccolo, Bishop of Sorrento, the church became a spiritual beacon for the town. It served as Sorrento's cathedral until the 15th century when the role was transferred to the newly inaugurated church of Saints Philip and James. In 1651, it became the seat of the Congregation of the Souls in Purgatory, accessible only to the nobility. The church underwent significant Baroque-style renovations in the 17th century, which imbued it with the ornate aesthetic it retains today.
The Chiesa dei Santi Felice e Baccolo boasts a striking facade, divided into two distinct sections by a horizontal entablature. The lower section features a grand central portal flanked by pilasters, adorned with intricate stucco decorations typical of the 16th-century Baroque style. Above, a smaller niche houses a statue of Saint Baccolo, while rectangular windows allow light to filter into the sacred space. The facade culminates in a pediment adorned with a central frieze and topped with a wrought iron cross.
Inside, the church is a single nave lavishly decorated with multicolored marble and an exquisite coffered ceiling. At its center, a canvas depicting the Holy Trinity captivates the eye. On either side of the nave, chapels offer further artistic treasures. The right chapel houses an altar originally from the church of Saint Vincent, along with an organ crowned by a 16th-century painting of Saint Dominic and other Dominican saints receiving the rosary from the Virgin Mary. The left chapel, once patronized by the Donnorso family, features a panel depicting Saint Joseph, Saint Januarius, and Saint Raphael surrounding a Byzantine icon of the Madonna and Child.
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The main altar, crafted in the 18th century by Antonio Gandolfo, is a masterpiece of religious art. It features angelic heads carved in relief, surrounding a depiction of the Holy Spirit above the tabernacle. Beneath the altar lies an urn containing the relics of Saint Baccolo, while above, the statue of Our Lady of the Rosary stands in serene grace. The crypt, dating back to 1753, is adorned with a painting of the Madonna and Child and brims with ex-votos, testament to the enduring faith of the Sorrentine people.
Other notable artworks within the church include a 1734 painting of Saint Baccolo by Giovanni Bernardo, statues of Saint Joseph, Saint Irene, Saint Louis, Saint Michael, and Saint Baccolo, as well as an 18th-century Neapolitan nativity scene.
Today, the Chiesa dei Santi Felice e Baccolo continues to be a vibrant part of Sorrento's cultural and spiritual life. Its walls echo with centuries of prayer, art, and community gatherings, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking to connect with the rich heritage of this picturesque town. Whether you're drawn by its historical significance, its architectural beauty, or its spiritual atmosphere, a visit to this remarkable church is sure to leave a lasting impression.
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