Abbey of St. Peter the Old

In the heart of Huesca, Spain, stands a gem of Romanesque architecture and a testament to the rich historical tapestry of the region: the Abbey of St. Peter the Old, or as it is known locally, Monasterio de San Pedro el Viejo. This ancient Benedictine monastery, dating back to the early 12th century, invites visitors to step back in time and explore its storied past, architectural marvels, and cultural significance.

The Historical Significance of the Abbey of St. Peter the Old

The Abbey of St. Peter the Old is one of Spain's oldest churches, with its origins tracing back to a Visigothic church built on the remains of a Roman temple. During the Moorish occupation, a Mozarabic church was constructed on this site, serving the Christian population. Following the Christian reconquest of Huesca in 1096, King Peter I of Aragon and Navarre entrusted the site to the Benedictine monks from the Abbey of Saint-Pons-de-Thomières in France. This marked the beginning of the abbey's transformation into the magnificent structure we see today.

Construction of the current Romanesque church began in 1117, replacing the smaller Mozarabic church. By 1158-1160, the new church was completed, featuring a design that has endured through the centuries. The next major phase of construction, between 1170 and 1198, saw the addition of a new cloister, enhancing the abbey's architectural splendor. In the early 13th century, the construction of the tower began, which was not completed until the 14th century. To improve interior lighting, a tiburio (lantern tower) was added between 1236 and 1240.

Architectural Marvels

As you approach the Abbey of St. Peter the Old, the first sight to greet you is the hexagonal bell tower from the 13th century, standing proudly next to the church's portal. The lower level of the tower features narrow, arrow-slit windows framed by columns, casting light into the San Ponce chapel below. The entrance to the church, located on the north side, was originally the cemetery's access point. The former main portal, now replaced by the west choir, was adorned with three round-arched archivolts decorated with leaf and checkerboard motifs. The tympanum above the portal depicts two angels holding a disc with the Christogram and the letters Alpha and Omega, with the Lamb of God in the center.

Exploring the Church Interior

Stepping inside, you are greeted by a three-aisled nave divided into five bays, with a transept that does not extend beyond the nave. The church measures 41.30 meters in length and 14 meters in width, with three semi-circular apses at the eastern end. The main nave and side aisles are covered with barrel vaults, supported by massive round arches resting on cruciform piers. The tiburio, with its ribbed vault and diamond-framed oculi, illuminates the crossing, creating a serene and contemplative atmosphere.

The north aisle is home to 13th-century wall paintings, attributed to the painter Sancristóbal, who worked in the church around 1276. These frescoes depict scenes from the Bible, including David's battle with Goliath, Moses and the Burning Bush, and the Brazen Serpent. The main altar, carved from wood and gilded in 1601 by Juan de Berrueta and Juan de Alí, stands as a fine example of the transition from Renaissance to Baroque styles. In the right apse, the polychrome figure of the Virgin of the Snows, dating from the late 14th century, adds a touch of color and devotion.

Discovering the Cloister

The cloister, constructed in the latter half of the 12th century, is a rectangular oasis of tranquility. Its arcades, supported by double columns with shared capitals, feature intricate carvings depicting scenes from the lives of Mary and Jesus, the story of Cain and Abel, and mythical creatures. Of the 38 capitals, 18 are original, while the rest were replaced with replicas in the late 19th century. The original capitals, now housed in the Provincial Museum of Huesca, showcase the skill of the Master of San Juan de la Peña, who is believed to have also worked on the cloister of San Juan de la Peña Monastery.

The Bartholomew Chapel

One of the most fascinating parts of the abbey is the Bartholomew Chapel, which dates back to the pre-Romanesque church. This three-bay chapel, covered with a barrel vault supported by two transverse arches, served as the chapter house for the Benedictine monks and later as the royal pantheon. Here lie the remains of King Alfonso I, known as the Battler, who was transferred from Montearagón Castle in 1843, and King Ramiro II, who spent his last twenty years as a monk at the abbey. The chapel also houses the tomb of the last prior of the monastery, Bernardo Alter Zapila, who died in 1494.

A Timeless Legacy

The Abbey of St. Peter the Old is not just a monument; it is a living testament to the resilience and faith of the people of Huesca. Declared a cultural heritage site in 1885, it continues to be a place of worship and a beacon of history. As you wander through its ancient halls, cloisters, and chapels, you can almost hear the echoes of centuries past, inviting you to reflect on the enduring legacy of this remarkable abbey.