Nestled in the heart of Exeter, St Mary Arches Church stands as a testament to the city's rich medieval heritage and architectural splendor. This unassuming yet profoundly historic structure invites visitors to step back in time and explore its Norman roots. Serving as a spiritual haven for Exeter's mayors and merchants during the 14th to 16th centuries, the church is a captivating blend of history and architecture that offers a unique glimpse into the past.
St Mary Arches Church is primarily constructed from the region's distinctive red sandstone, earning it a Grade I listing by Historic England. Among Devon's medieval churches, it is distinct for its Norman arcade, a feature that possibly inspired the 'Arches' in its name. The church's structural history is both complex and fascinating, showing evidence of expansion and contraction throughout the Middle Ages. Originally, the church served a bustling parish covering three prosperous acres, reflecting its importance in the community.
The church's exterior is a harmonious blend of medieval and later architectural styles. Its most prominent feature, the southern elevation, is visible from the bustling High Street. Here, one can admire the intricate Perpendicular windows with their three lights and panel tracery, typical of the period. The small tower at the western end, with its Norman remnants, adds a historical depth to the building's facade. The tower's parapet, adorned with corner balls, and the segmental stair tower on the north side, further enhance its medieval charm.
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St Mary Arches Church has not only withstood the passage of time but also the ravages of war. During the Exeter Blitz of May 1942, the church narrowly escaped destruction. An incendiary bomb caused significant damage to the 15th-century wagon roof, but the quick actions of the sisters from the St Wilfrid community saved precious artifacts. Post-war restoration efforts, led by architect Stephen Dykes-Bower, restored the church to its former glory, incorporating new ceilings and modern furnishings.
Step inside, and you'll be greeted by the church's most striking feature: the 12th-century Norman arcade. This architectural marvel consists of four bays, with circular piers and intricately notched capitals supporting double-chamfered arches. The interior walls, plastered and whitewashed, provide a serene backdrop to the historic elements within. A notable feature is the 1700s reredos, crafted by John Legg, with its Corinthian pilasters and ornately carved foliage.
St Mary Arches Church is home to an impressive collection of monuments dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. These memorials, dedicated to prominent Exeter figures, add a personal touch to the church's historical narrative. Among them is the monument to Thomas Andrew, a two-time mayor of Exeter, featuring a recumbent figure beneath a gothic canopy. The church also houses the monument to Robert Walker, another mayor, with its Corinthian columns and open pediment.
Today, St Mary Arches Church continues to serve the community, hosting a non-denominational evangelical group. The church's adaptation to modern needs is evident in its updated seating and carpeted floors, yet it retains its historical essence. The building's north office, now a functional space, reflects the church's ability to blend tradition with contemporary usage.
The bombing of Exeter during World War II inadvertently revealed hidden layers of the city's history, including Roman pavements and city walls. St Mary Arches Church, too, holds secrets waiting to be uncovered by the discerning visitor. As you explore, imagine the bustling medieval parish it once served, and the quiet resilience it has shown through centuries of change.
Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, St Mary Arches Church offers a unique and enriching experience. Its walls echo with stories of Exeter's past, from its Norman origins to its survival through war. As you wander through its nave and aisles, take a moment to appreciate the craftsmanship and history that have been preserved within these sacred walls. A visit to St Mary Arches Church is not just a journey through time but a celebration of Exeter's enduring spirit.
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